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Winter Farmer’s Market Must-Haves

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A bunch of fresh vegetables like carrots and lettuce sit on a table alongside fresh mushrooms to show winter farmer's market must-haves.

Summer may steal the show but Winter has her fair share of must-haves at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. Post-holiday fatigue calls for something simple – anything green, simply steamed or sautéed, with a lick of olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. The Market joyously delivers with a surprising abundance of fresh produce.

Bunches of rainbow chard that look like leafy poesies…bags of giant, dark green-leafed spinach that assure you that the indulgences of the holidays are but a distant memory…rainbow radishes with their hot pink interior. And orange and purple carrots – short and intensely sweet – that only want a gentle roast in the oven. 

Handfuls of lions mane, shitake, and blue oyster mushrooms from Santa Fe Mountain Mushrooms and the menu was complete. (They also do a killer mushroom soup to slurp in the comfort of your own home). 

Here are some winter recipe ideas for your farmer’s market must-haves:

Pan-Roasted Carrots with Tahini Sauce

Roasted Wild Mushrooms and Potatoes with Chimichurri

Roasted Salmon with Sautéed Spinach and Zucchini & Dill Relish

And we like the look of Donna Hay’s Swiss Chard Rolls, too!

Story and Photography by Julia Platt Leonard 

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The Magic of the Bread Shop in Santa Fe

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A loaf of sourdough bread sits next to a baguette and muffin on top of a towel as products from Bread Shop in Santa Fe.

We like a place that says what it is and does what it says. A perfect example? Bread Shop located on ultra-hip Lena Street in Santa Fe. Bread Shop makes – surprise, surprise – real-deal sourdough breads. Snap up a Boule – their whole wheat country loaf with the perfect crust and airy interior – a Seedy Rye, Cherry Poppy, or a Baguette made from spelt flour.

But bread is just the tip of the bakery. We’d sell our not-so-distant cousin for a slice of their Citrus Olive Oil Cake, Hazelnut Brownie made with Colombian dark chocolate and toasted hazelnuts, or Breakfast Cake with a magical mix of millet, pecans and golden raisins. Midday, grab a sandwich that starts off with their own focaccia then adds the likes of roasted cauliflower, a healthy dollop of hazelnut romesco, some manchego, and a handful of peppery arugula.

The space also doubles as a food shop selling gourmet provisions for the hungry of the eye and stomach, like pasta, sea salt, extra virgin olive oils, plus covetable wooden cutting boards and linen towels. 

While man may not live by bread alone, he just might live by Bread Shop.

Story and Photography by Julia Platt Leonard

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4 Cocktail Recipes from New Mexico’s Gruet Winery

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NM Mélangé: Four colorful and refreshing cocktails inspired by Gruet Winery's sparkling wines

New Mexico is a remarkable gathering of visionaries, and it’s our great fortune that Gruet Winery & Tasting Room has chosen to call it home. The winery was established in 1984 and is renowned for its méthode champenoise or méthode traditional sparkling wines, made with traditional French methods. Gruet produces several sparkling wines, primarily Pinot noir- and Chardonnay-based, making it ideal for blending into inventive cocktails. The Gruet Demi Sec for example is fresh and delicate on the palate with delightful peach notes. Its apple finish is earthy, crisp, and slightly sweet. Perfect for summer picnics in the garden, or for a Bleeding Heart cocktail (recipe found below).

Daniel Gutierrez, tasting room manager for Gruet Winery Santa Fe, and bartender Noemi Leon worked together previously at Hotel Chaco. During this time, they discovered that they shared similar flavor profiles and perspectives when it came to crafting cocktails and pairing them with food: a collaboration was born.

Daniel Gutierrez, tasting room manager for Gruet Winery Santa Fe, and bartender Noemi Leon

The two aimed to showcase for TABLE readers the rich flavors of Gruet’s wines, which can be enjoyed on their own or paired with other ingredients for increased versatility year-round. To enhance the brioche and fruit notes already present in Gruet’s sparkling wines, the team introduced herbs into the mix. Inspired by her Hispanic heritage, Noemi added tea to provide a comforting touch. Seasonality played a key role in the creation of the cocktails, with ginger or pear infused for cozy indoor days and lemon sorbet to refresh the palate on hot days. Finally, a delicious and herbaceous cocktail serves as the perfect finale to a meal during a monsoon rain.

Bleeding Heart cocktail with grapefruit twist and red Gerbera petals garnish

Bleeding Heart Recipe

INGREDIENTS

Edible shimmer glitter
¾ oz grapefruit juice
1 oz Campari
1 ½ oz blood orange soda
Splash of soda water
5 oz Gruet Demi Sec
Long grapefruit twist for garnish
Red gerbera petals for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Quickly combine the shimmer, grapefruit juice, and Campari in a shaker. Fine-strain the liquid into a bar pitcher and pour in the sodas.
  2. Then pour the mixture into a glass and top with the Gruet Demi Sec.
  3. Stir lightly, add ice, garnish with a long grapefruit twist and red Gerbera petals and enjoy.

Rainy Day Bubbles cocktail with lemon twist and thyme bundle garnish

Rainy Day Bubbles Recipe

INGREDIENTS

½ oz honey simple syrup
3-4 fresh thyme sprigs
½ oz fresh lemon juice
¾ oz honey liqueur
1 ½ oz pear juice
4 oz Gruet Brut
Long spiral lemon twist for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. In a cocktail shaker, add honey simple syrup, and fresh thyme. Muddle, then add lemon, honey liqueur, pear juice, and shake.
  2. Fine-strain into a champagne flute and top with Gruet Brut — stir lightly.
  3. Garnish with a long spiral lemon twist and a clipped thyme bundle.

Secret in the Garden cocktail with lemon sorbet and lavender garnish

Secret in the Garden Recipe

INGREDIENTS

½ oz lavender simple syrup
1 ½ oz Earl Grey tea
1 large scoop of lemon sorbet
Ice
3 oz Gruet Blanc de Noir
Lavender sprigs and petal float for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. In a cocktail shaker, combine lavender simple syrup, Earl Grey tea, and a large scoop of lemon sorbet.
  2. Add ice, shake, then strain into serving pitcher.
  3. Add the Gruet Blanc de Noir, stir lightly, and pour into a coupe glass. Garnish with lavender springs and petal float.

Papillon Royale cocktail with butterfly pea blossom extract and mint garnish

Papillon Royale Recipe

INGREDIENTS

4 mint leaves
¾ oz fresh lemon juice
1 oz ginger liqueur
3-4 drops of butterfly pea blossom extract
Ice
5 oz Gruet Deux sparkling wine
Edible butterfly toppers sugared to the glass for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. In a cocktail shaker, add the mint and dry-muddle.
  2. Add lemon juice, ginger liqueur, butterfly pea blossom, and ice. Shake. Strain into a champagne flute.
  3. op with Gruet Deux, stir lightly, and garnish with edible butterfly toppers sugared to the glass.

Story by Gabe Gomez / Photography by Gabriella Marks / Styling by Alex Hanna

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Crispy Butter Beans with Whipped Chevre

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Crispy Butter Beans with Whipped Chèvre - a delectable side dish featuring Goat Rodeo’s fresh chèvre cheese

If your holiday meal includes ham, look no further for a simple but delicious side dish to add to the sideboard. This recipe is also a great addition to game-day snacks to be enjoyed with a cold beer. Quickly toss drained and dried beans in a mixture of cornstarch and seasonings and bake till crisp. The whipped chèvre brings in the naturally lemony notes of Goat Rodeo’s fresh chèvre cheese, as well as its delectable creaminess. You will be making this more than once, we promise.

Crispy Butter Beans with Whipped Chèvre Recipe

INGREDIENTS

For the beans:

2 cans butter beans
2 tbsp cornstarch
1 tsp paprika
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp herbs, chopped (try thyme and rosemary, but any herbs work)
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
Salt and pepper to taste

For the whipped chèvre:

4 – 6 oz Fresh chèvre cheese
1/4 cup Greek yogurt
1 tbsp olive oil
Paprika and black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

For the beans:

  1. Rinse and drain both cans of beans. Pat them dry making sure there is no excess liquid.
  2. Toss the beans in a bowl with cornstarch, herbs, and seasonings. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet in an even layer.
  3. Drizzle with olive oil and bake at 400 degrees until the outer layer of the beans are brown and crunchy. Garnish with more freshly chopped herbs and serve with whipped feta dip.

For the whipped chèvre:

  1. In a food processor whip the chèvre and Greek yogurt until you get a smooth consistency.
  2. Add extra chèvre if it needs thickening. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with paprika and black pepper.

Story by Keith Recker / Recipe and Styling by Anna Franklin / Photography by Dave Bryce / With Support From Buy Fresh Buy Local Western PA

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The Ultimate Cranberry Mimosa

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Sparkling cranberry mimosa in a champagne flute, crafted with homemade cranberry juice for a vibrant, festive sip.

The ultimate cranberry mimosa requires making your own cranberry juice, but the work is well worth it. Bid adieu to the old year and ring in the new with natural cranberry flavor, a festive red color, and the bright bubbles of sparkling wine.

The Ultimate Cranberry Mimosa Recipe

INGREDIENTS

1 bag of cranberries
½ cup of sugar
1 cup of water
One bottle of your favorite prosecco, cava, or champagne

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Combine cranberries, sugar, and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low-medium and simmer for 20 minutes.
  2. Allow the mixture to cool, and press through a thin sieve to remove the cranberry skins. You’ll be left with a syrupy juice to which you can add a little water, though the thicker texture works perfectly for this cocktail.
  3. Add 1 ½ oz of the homemade cranberry juice to a champagne flute and top with sparkling white wine. Garnish with a fresh cranberry or two, and enjoy!

Story, Recipe and Styling by Justin Matase / Photography by Dave Bryce

Try a few of our other sparkling-wine-based cocktails:

Classic French 75

Chamomile Guava MOMosa

Cognac and Cardamom French 75

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The Craveworthy Appeal of Albuquerque’s Rude Boy Cookies

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A platter of cookies laid out in a circle on a checkered table.
Photo courtesy of Rude Boy Cookies

You don’t have to look far to find cookies that take the cake. For nearly 10 years, Rude Boy Cookies has rocked Albuquerque with incredible edible art, handcrafted in an array of inventive flavors, colors, and shapes.

Unique, Addictive Flavors

Think German Chocolate Cake, Hot Fudge Sundae, and Red Velvet cookies, creatively painted with royal icing to resemble hot air balloons, hearts, superheroes, real-life heroes and dozens of other tempting treats. Rude Boy Cookies also customizes festive cookies for birthdays, weddings, and holidays and serves up homemade ice cream and milkshakes. It’s no surprise that in 2023, USA Today named Rude Boy Cookies one of the top 10 cookie shops in the country.

Musical Inspiration

One ingredient in Rude Boy Cookies’ success is the irresistible beat of ska, rooted in Jamaican music and culture of the 1960s. “I set out to open a business that combined my loves—music and chocolate chip cookies,” says co-owner Mike Silva. “Especially ska. Fans of ska music are called Rude Boys.” 

Silva jazzed up the Rude Boy Cookies shop with ska imagery inside and out, including iconic ska checkerboards and the joyful silhouette of a ska dancer wearing a signature suit and a porkpie hat. Rude Boy Cookies evens hosts live music and bands often stop in for cookies.

It’s Always Been Cookies

The sweet shop wouldn’t have a cult following without its magician in the kitchen, co-owner Kristin Dowling. She took gold, along with the $10,000 purse, at the 2017 Food Network Christmas Cookie Challenge. For one of her winning creations, she artfully painted biscochitos with a snowy New Mexico holiday scene: an adobe church and chile ristras beneath a starry sky.

“Kristin’s created all our cookie recipes,” says Silva. “She’s been baking since she was a kid in the kitchen with her grandmother. She excels at creativity. She’s an artist, able to transform her creative ability onto the cookie. She found a way to combine her love of cooking and art.”

Dowling’s award-winning biscochitos make delectable holiday gifts, and so do dozens of other enchanting sweets from Rude Boy Cookies, which ships its treats around the country. The only challenge to shopping online, or in person at the two Albuquerque locations, is resisting the temptation to purchase one of each extraordinary edible masterpiece.

Story by Lynn Cline

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Friendmas Celebrations for All

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A cozy and festive gathering at Molly's Tuscan-inspired home, filled with friends, delicious food, and the warmth of the holiday season, offering a refuge from the usual year-end hustle and bustle.

Friendmas is the holiday for everyone regardless of how you view the season.

Ok, I’ll admit it. I’m not much of a holiday-season guy. I get a bit overwhelmed by all the obligations and all the stuff. As a small business owner, I’ve had years where I’ve felt obliged to go to dozens of parties at peak season: – clients, friends, client-friends. It all blurs together. Don’t get me wrong: I love my clients and friends, and I love a good party.! I even love some of the stuff. Who doesn’t take some joy from the lights brightening up the short days and a sweet, well-conceived gift (given or received). But by the end of a busy year, I’m mostly looking for downtime. I know some of my friends feel the same way.

Friendmas Celebrations for All

Friendmas Celebration

So, imagine a doctor, a retail store manager, a non-profit guru, and me all looking for a quiet (and maybe fun) evening to release the year-end stresses. Enter our dear friend Molly, – the gorgeous tennis-playing, interior-designing, dog-loving friend with the most welcoming sanctuary of a house.

Meal in a rustic dining

Molly is the super-mom empty-nester who now adopts rescue dogs and has an open-door policy for all her friends. She’s got a wonderfully eclectic chosen family that we’re thrilled to be a part. Out of the blue one day, she telephones: Come escape to my place for a bit. Have a drink, relax. Our friends at Tesuque Village Market just down the street can help us out.

Roasted rack lamb

Forming the Table

The good folks at TVM know how to make a killer drink. Mike and Reeve (who doubles as an accountant at Ten Thousand Waves spa) arrive with all the fixings for an amazing prickly pear margarita, the color luscious, and the tequila out of this world. Let’s just say after one of those and some crazy-good guacamole, any and all holiday blues quickly turned a bright shade of pink.

lamb chops

With the help of Kitty Solon and Foraged Santa Fe, Molly has turned her cozy Tuscan cocoon of a dining room into a fine spot for a winter party. Mike’s young Spanish wizard of a chef, David Martinez, begins to fill the air with scents of his excellent food. Molly ferrets out some good reds in the wine cellar. All at once– because this the kind of party that is a refuge from all other parties, and everything else as well, we only have eyes and ears for each other. Which is the best feeling ever.

Pie

We all sit down to Chef David’s gorgeous dinner of lamb chops smothered in a rich, spicy New Mexico red chile sauce. One of my favorite Mexican/New Mexican dishes accompanies the lamb: traditional calabacitas, a lively medley of the best cold-weather veggies.

Chef David’s gorgeous dinner of lamb

Easy Talking

The conversation runs the gamut from a quick burst of work talk that we needed to get out of our systems, to a strangely nostalgic recollection of the worst days of the pandemic. Because this house also served us in those years as a refuge for our pod of folks, I celebrated my 50th birthday here. We moved on to joyous updates about families and friends and dream vacations. And, naturally, we talk about food, especially the spicy food in front of us.

We cool off our palates with a sumptuous tres leches cake for dessert. The TVM crew went out of their way to make it jaw-dropping as well as delicious. We were all feeling rather, shall we say festive, as we contemplated retiring to the living room for a bit more tequila. This time we left the pink stuff out. The conversation is a bit of a haze from here on out and some of it might not be fit for sharing. But the glorious and relaxing year-end celebration lingers on in the mind. Sometimes it makes Grinch-like me wonder if I might not, after all, be a holiday season guy.

Friends celebrating Friendmas

Story by Alex Hanna / Photography by Tira Howard / Styling by Kitty Solon / Food by Tesuque Village Market / “Sacred Bird” Dinnerware courtesy of Mottahedeh

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Box Road Brings Unique Antiques to Albuquerque

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A captivating blend of antique, vintage, and modern furnishings and accessories from Box Road, housed in the beautifully remodeled 1928-era Art Deco-style Arrow Grocery in Albuquerque's historic Barelas district.

What happens when two friends and business partners with a passion for antiques come across a derelict 1928-era, Art Deco-style grocery store? Alex Hanna headed to Albuquerque to find out more about Box Road.

Unique Antiques to Albuquerque

A Chance Meeting

When my husband and I moved into a new house years ago, we were faced with a very large cold floor, thanks to the previous owner’s DIY addition. Our feet were freezing, but, like a lot of new homeowners, our budget for remodeling was long gone. Luckily, we met Michael Ouellette who was working primarily in the rug business and was kind enough to loan us a luxurious, African-inspired, indigo carpet. That piece was worth far more than we could spend at the time, but it kept us cozy for months until we found something in our price range. That was years ago, but I still dream about that rug.

Popular antiques

Michael still deals in rugs but now so much more. He and his business partner Donnie Volkart have been fixtures in Round Top, Texas–home of one of the country’s most popular antiques fairs–for years. Now they’re a lot closer to home, thanks to their new space near downtown Albuquerque. It’s a classic story of people with a passion for what they do who literally live and work out of the back of their trucks to find the best antiques and vintage and modern furnishings and accessories.

Antiques vintage and modern furnishings

Connecting New Mexico to the Hispanic World

Michael and Donnie do lots of buying in Mexico City and have always had a strong connection to the aesthetics of the Hispanic world. When they came across the abandoned Arrow Grocery from the late 1920s in the Barelas district of Albuquerque–the oldest “barrio” in the city, established in the 17th century–they saw an opportunity to connect even more closely with the culture. Indeed, one of the very first things I saw when I arrived were the charming and mysterious faces sculpted onto a series of Oaxacan vessels. While the whimsy that animates these vessels seems to be a guiding force for their collections, it belies the amount of work behind the scenes: the massive remodel of the space, the countless hours traveling around the country and the world, and the efforts to connect objects with just the right owners.

Anything From Anywhere

Part of what makes the store’s style and creativity work is that they don’t limit themselves to Latin American objects or even to just old objects. You can find modernist gems and Scandinavia design sitting side by side quite happily. Distressed painted dressers proudly show their age, topped by French confit jars with crackled glaze. Tucked into weathered cabinets you’ll find folk-art pieces that beg the question: what is this for exactly? And there are what I’d call old-school antiques like 1800s English tableware and chests that look like they made the trip across the Atlantic covered with contemporary artisanal dinnerware and utensils.

The sum here is movingly greater than the parts, and It is this energetic juxtaposition that excites the imagination and feeds the soul. Cultural inspirations from around the world are beautifully curated in this transformed old grocery space in one of the oldest settlements in New Mexico. Both the space and its contents, now enjoying a new lease on life.

Old-school antiques

While much of their business is to the trade, don’t hesitate to visit, whether to shop or simply to get inspiration for your own interior design projects from these two passionate pros.

Story by Alex Hanna / Photography by Tira Howard

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Stacey Edgar to Lead Santa Fe’s International Folk Art Market

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A photo of Stacey Edgar a woman, in front of a yellow background wearing an orange shirt, blue earrings, and a smile on her face.

The International Folk Art Market’s mission is to create economic opportunities for and with folk artists across the world by staging an important market through which to sell their work. After a thorough search, the organization is pleased to announce that Stacey Edgar has been appointed as Executive Director.

“I am really excited for the folk artists because of Stacey’s background. She has deep international experience in Latin America and Africa and experience creating markets for artists. She understands the small businesses of the folk artists and the difficulties and challenges the artists experience every day at the grassroots level. It is a terrific match,” said IFAM cofounder Tom Aageson.

Who is Stacey Edgar?

Stacey Edgar is an award-winning social entrepreneur, educator, researcher, and artisan business consultant with over 20 years of experience working with folk artists globally. For the past five years Stacey has served as an assistant teaching professor at the University of Colorado Boulder, Leeds School of Business in the Social Responsibility & Sustainability Division.

“I am incredibly honored and excited for the opportunity to join the IFAM team—with its amazing founders, board, advisory board and staff—as we work together to celebrate our 20th anniversary. My goal is to partner with our global community of folk artists to expand the role and positive impact of IFAM in creating connection and opportunities for folk artists as we move into our next 20 years,” said Stacey Edgar.

TABLE Magazine had the chance this week to interview Stacey Edgar to discuss her love for folk art, her favorite restaurant in Santa Fe, and of course her future at Santa Fe’s International Folk Art Market.

Is there a bit of folk art that you live with that inspires you every time you look at it? Why?

Stacy Edgar: This is a very hard question because as a collector, I am lucky to be surrounded by folk art that I love, most of which I’ve brought back from my travels, so each piece is tied to memories of places and people I care about. I have a dinning room wall full of BaTonga baskets I jammed into an oversize duffle bag to carry back from Zambia, an embroidered wool blanket I bought from a shepherd in Lesotho, and several Guatemalan huipils that both hang on my walls and on my person as wearable art.

Still, I am most moved by an intricately carved letter opener from India that my grandfather sent my grandmother when we was serving in the China-Burma-India (CBI) Theater during World War II. Knowing she used it to open his much anticipated and treasured letters during that time connects me to my grandparents, to the community in the West Bengal region of India where he was stationed, and reminds me of how I first became interested in other cultures growing up as a young girl in a rural small town in Illinois. That is the power of folk art to connect all of us across time and place.

Where will your first dinner out be in Santa Fe after your move? What will you order?

SE: This one is easy, The Shed, and I’ll have the cheese enchiladas “Christmas style.” While Santa Fe has an incredibly vibrant culinary scene, from some of the best food trucks to five star restaurants, The Shed is somewhere my family has loved since I first brought my kids to visit IFAM in 2007. It is a must stop for us for great Mexican food and margaritas, followed by a simple hot fudge sundae. I do, however, look forward to eating my way all around town!

What is your proudest accomplishment, and how will that energize your work at IFAM?

SE: I am always astonished by my great fortune in getting to spend the past 20 years working with artisans around the world. As a social worker, I started my own company in 2003 with a two thousand dollar investment from my tax return and the idea that my girlfriends in the US would want to support women artisans by buying their art. I had no idea the powerful impact that small investment would make in my life and in the lives of my artisan partners over the years. I’ve learned so much from folk artists about creativity, community, sustainability, resistance, resilience, and shared prosperity. Those lessons, and what they hold for our larger society as we tackle some of our greatest social and environmental challenges, are what inspire me and energize me to keep learning and growing alongside the folk art community.

Looking ahead to IFAM 2024

167 artists from 51 countries have been selected for IFAM’s 20th anniversary market. IFAM is excited to welcome 41 first-time artists and a new country, Papua New Guinea, to the market. The market will take place July 11-14, 2024 at the Santa Fe Railyard Park.

 

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New Year Turcos

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New Year Turcos - savory empanadas with spiced beef filling.

Turcos are a kind of empanada full of a flavorful pork filling. A journey back through history reveals that the story of these savory-and-sweet turnovers is actually from the Sephardic Jews of Mexico who arrived from the Mediterranean in the colonial era. While numerous variations of these petite meat turnovers exist in Mexico and the US, the most interesting are turcos. Not only are they tasty but also linked by historical records to the Mexican Inquisition, the celebration of Sukkoth, a harvest festival, and Rosh HaShana, the Jewish New Year.

The History of Turcos

The Inquisition’s earliest evidence of the consumption of turcos dates from the early 17th century. The court documented the cultural habits, including foodways, of Jews, sometimes called conversos, who claimed to have converted to Christianity (mostly in order to escape death by fire) but who, in fact, continued to practice Judaism secretly. Their customs were a hybrid of Christian and Jewish habits. What conversos ate was evidence to identify them as crypto-Jews, and to justify sending them to their death.

On September 21, 1603, in Mexico City, prisoner of the Inquisition Sebastián Rodríguez hosted a feast at Cárcel Perpétua, which was a sort of penal residence. Prisoners could go out to conduct their business during the day but had to return every evening. Rodríguez’s party was a celebration of Sukkot, a Jewish harvest festival whose customs include building a hut outside and decorating it with natural materials.

A Feast for All

All the dishes for this feast came from Rodriguez’s home kitchen, mainly by his wife and daughter. David Gitlitz writes in Living in Silverado that Rodríguez and the other celebrants “drew their tables out into the prison courtyard under the open sky. They decorated the pillars of the corridor with willow branches and leaves that Rodríguez had purchased and arranged to be carried to the prison.”

The entire Portuguese prison community received an invite to this lavish harvest festival. Three of Rodríguez’s invitees turned down the invitation because, it was speculated, they ate only kosher foods and “everyone else … eats salt pork and is not concerned about it.” The guests who did attend then celebrated Sukkot with a banquet of turcos, pasteles, tortas, and empanadas.

Documentation of a Mexican trial which took place on September 10, 1603, also tells us about the consumption of turcos. Even if the Jewish holiday of Rosh HaShana (the New Year of the Jewish calendar) is not explicitly mentioned, we assume that turcos were made for this occasion.

Particularly when ancient customs are delicious, they live on. Today, regions nearest the Mexican border, especially Texas, embrace turcos as an integral part of New Year celebrations. Texans blend anise seeds into the dough and fill it with crispy pork, cinnamon, raisins, apple, garlic, onions, sugar, nuts, and cloves. This culinary synthesis echoes the greens and sweet-savory essence of Sephardic Rosh HaShana fare. From one New Year festivity to the next, turcos offer a tangible connection to the passage and integration of crypto-Jewish customs into contemporary American life.

Recipe by Hélène Jawhara-Piñer
Story by Gabe Gomez
Styling by Anna Franklin
Photography by Dave Bryce

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