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Black Sesame Kiwi Cheesecake

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A black sesame kiwi cheesecake with a gelée layer in green sits witha. slice being taken out and kiwi slices all around the outside.

The creamy allure of cheesecake is enough to get us into our kitchen and ready to bake up something delicious. This Black Sesame Kiwi Cheesecake elevates your basic cheesecake into an unforgettable recipe. The toasty flavor of black sesame seeds is a great counterpart to the tangy sweetness of kiwi. In order to build this cheesecake up from the bottom we’re starting with a homemade graham cracker crust that uses sesame paste within the recipe. Then, you’ll create the delicate cheesecake center that’s includes little adjustments to make it the best it can be. Finally, a kiwi gelée layers on top that’s shockingly beautiful and adds a different texture to the cheesecake experience.

What is Gelée?

We know gelée looks pretty close to jello but they are two completely different things. The key signifier of a gelée is a lightly-set texture that’s softer than jello and usually uses fruit for flavoring. Plus, it’s usually used within dessert and pastry recipes. A gelée comes from thickening a liquid with gelatin or in our case, the plant-based alternative agar agar. After your layer sets, it’ll end up with a glossy finish that looks almost like a colorful glaze.

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A black sesame kiwi cheesecake with a gelée layer in green sits witha. slice being taken out and kiwi slices all around the outside.

Black Sesame Kiwi Cheesecake


  • Author: Marla Harvey

Description

Unlike any cheesecake you’ve had before in the best way.


Ingredients

Scale

For the crust:

  • 1 full box of graham crackers ~ 21 full size crackers
  • 6 tbsp brown sugar
  • 3 oz melted butter
  • 2 tbsp sesame paste
  • 1 tsp salt

For the cheesecake filling:

  • 2 lb cream cheese, softened
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste
  • 4 whole room-temperature large eggs
  • 14 oz sour cream

For the gelée:

  • 6 whole kiwis, peeled and pureed
  • ½ cup water
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 1 tsp agar agar


Instructions

For the crust:

  1. In a food processor, grind graham crackers into a fine dust.
  2. Add in sugar and blend.
  3. Add in butter, sesame paste, and blend.
  4. Remove mixture and press into a 9-inch springform pan .
  5. Pack down evenly, do not par bake.

For the cheesecake filling:

  1. Preheat oven to 325 and add a shallow pan with boiling water to the bottom rack.
  2. In a stand mixer, add cream cheese and beat with a paddle attachment.
  3. Scrape the inside occasionally to ensure no lumps.
  4. Add in salt, vanilla, sour cream, and mix until combined, scrape bowl.
  5. Add in eggs one at a time and mix after each addition.
  6. Mix until smooth and creamy.
  7. Pour into a 9-inch springform pan.
  8. DON’T PLACE CHEESECAKE INTO BATH
  9. Wrap the outside of the springform pan with aluminum foil AROUND the bottom and sides of cheesecake.
  10. Double wrap around the sides and bottom.
  11. Put into middle of top rack in oven and bake for 1 hour.
  12. Turn the oven OFF, crack the oven door, and let sit for an additional 30 minutes.
  13. Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature.
  14. Refrigerate overnight.

For the gelée:

  1. In a saucepan, slowly heat the water, sugar, and kiwi.
  2. Add the agar, mix, and let cool to 120-130 degrees.
  3. Wrap the cheesecake with acetate and pour on top of cheesecake.
  4. Let sit at room temp until gelée starts to solidify.
  5. Place in fridge overnight.

Recipe by Marla Harvey
Photography by Dave Bryce

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The Art of Generosity: Forest Stewards Guild Marks 30 Years of Forest Management

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A man stands in fire gear with a forest wildfire burning in the background.

The Art of Generosity is a storytelling series made possible through underwriting by the Santa Fe Community Foundation. Each feature shines a light on a local nonprofit shaping the cultural, social, and economic fabric of our region. By elevating these stories, the Foundation furthers its role in connecting people with the organizations as well as causes that help our shared home thrive.

The Forest Stewards Guild (FSG), founded in Santa Fe in 1995, recently celebrated 30 years promoting responsible forest management across the United States. FSG fills a vital niche connecting science, policy, and also landowners across the nation. They offer programs as varied as research, youth training and intern initiatives, to tree planting and innovative wildfire prevention. FSG’s small, passionate staff of 35 is stationed across the country. They operate with a budget of about $5.5 million per year – a combination of federal funding, grants, sponsorships and dues from its almost 900 person membership. Most members also professionally engage with the life of forests such as foresters, wildlife professionals, and water quality experts.

Two people dig into the forest grass.

Inside the Forest Stewards Guild: 30 Years of Innovation in Forest Management

Executive Director Zander Evans’ extensive background in ecological research and the human impact on forests took him from Providence, RI to work as a cartographer and spatial analyst with the US Geological Survey, to a PhD from the Yale School of Forestry and Environmental Studies

“My wife is from Santa Fe. As soon as I finished my PhD in 2006, she was waiting in the driveway with a moving truck ready to return,” he says of his move to New Mexico. He became FSG’s first Director of Research that year, moving into the Executive Director role in 2017.  

Zander Evans stands in a blue jacket in the forest.
Zander Evans

A New Headquarters

This year, the organization purchased its 5,600 sq. ft. building on Warner Circle with help from the Santa Fe Community Foundation, the New Mexico Finance Authority, and Washington Federal Bank. Now the staff has office and meeting space. The garage houses firefighting tools, camping gear as well as other equipment vital to its mission of protecting forest health. 

Three people examine samples of the soil.

Evans believes that responsible forest management is about doing, learning, and collaborating for the long-term. His philosophy is reflected in FSG’s ongoing growth and also community-focused approach.  

“The Guild’s work is incredibly rewarding because we see the positive impact of responsible stewardship every day. What I most pride myself on is identifying gaps where we can make a difference. For example, we introduced AI wildfire detection cameras in New Mexico, which was a small but impactful project. It makes me feel good when a small organization like ours can jump in and solve a problem. We have a great team, creative ideas, and are making connections. Those connections are only possible because of individual relationships and trust built over a long time.” 

For more information, visit here.

A person chops up trees that lay down in the forest.

Story by Kelly Koepke
Photos Courtesy of Forest Stewards Guild

Santa Fe Community Foundation

TABLE New Mexico’s non-profit profiles are supported by the Santa Fe Community Foundation. Together, we spotlight nonprofit leaders and organizations who are finding inventive ways to do the impossible in the midst of multiple crises. In the months ahead, TABLE will bring you stories of how they are helping our neighbors get access to the opportunities as well as services they need in the areas of Community Leadership, Education, Early Childhood, and in our Native American, Black, and LGBT+ communities. For more details: santafecf.org.

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Local New Mexico Salsas to Add to Your Pantry

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A variety of New Mexico made salsas in jars that sit in small green bowls around bowls of chips.

These New Mexico, locally-made salsas add a dash of spice and plenty of flavor to your pantry.

New Mexico Salsas

Plaza Café Chipotle Salsa

So popular are Plaza Café’s salsas that they’ve bottled them up so you can enjoy them at home. The Chipotle Salsa is hot and smoky thanks to the star attraction of chipotle chiles in adobo. This is one for the heat lover and great with a bowl of chips or drizzled liberally on egg dishes, enchiladas, or a platter of grilled shrimp or fish tacos.

Plaza Café Norteño Salsa

The Norteño is a milder, tomato-based salsa that calls out for corn tortilla chips for a marriage made in heaven. They’ve added a touch of mint which gives this salsa a welcome freshness. Pair with your favorite tacos or a quesadilla for a winning combination.  

A man moves a bowl of chips on the table that sit around various jars of salsas.

Jillipepper Red Chile & Pineapple Salsa 

Back in 1993, Jill Levin – aka Jillipepper – was faced with a glut of tomatoes so she started making salsa for friends and hasn’t stopped since. Her Albuquerque-based business features a line of salsas that includes her signature Red Chile & Pineapple Salsa, which combines the heat of red chile with the sweet tang of pineapple. 

Duran’s Jalapeno Salsa 

When jalapenos are the first ingredient listed, you’ve been warned. This salsa from the folks at Duran Central Pharmacy – the beloved Albuquerque diner-cum-pharmacy – isn’t for the faint of heart. But if you can stand the heat of a New Mexico summer, we know you’ll take to this fiery salsa. 

Plus, Local Chips for Dipping, Of Course

Chocolate Maven Chipotle Potato Chips

Think Chocolate Maven and you’ll probably think baked goods like their flaky Raspberry Croissants, Triple Chocolate Bundt Cake, or Red Chile Chocolate Pecan Pie. But they know a thing or two about the savory side of life, like their house-made potato chips. They start with razor-thin slices of potato, fry until crispy, and then dust liberally with chipotle chile powder. It’s the ideal snack to accompany a frosty cold beer or a dry-as-the-desert martini.

Story by Julia Platt Leonard
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Elderberry Spritzer

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An elderberry spritzer sits on a white table with a lime wheel and flower in the glass, elderberry syrup kit beside it, and cinnamon sticks in a small bowl in front of it.

An Elderberry Spritzer has a quiet kind of charm, especially on a hot day. It’s the sort of charm that doesn’t demand attention, but earns it with its deep color and refreshing sip. The taste is a delicate balance of tartness and gentle sweetness while the brightness from the bubbles creates a lightness that lifts the darker berry notes rather than making them heavy. It feels both indulgent and clean, like a drink that belongs at a sunlit brunch or a slow evening unwind.

A Local DIY Syrup to Make This Elderberry Spritzer

For centuries, the dark purple berries from elderberry plants have acted as a home remedy. Like other dark blue or purple fruits and vegetables, they contain anthocyanins which are thought to combat inflammation and boost your immune system. Megan’s Pantry makes a handy DIY elderberry syrup kit so you can make your own superpower syrup. Take it neat or better yet, pour some into a glass of chilled sparking water or wine to make our Elderberry Spritzer, sip, and feel satisfied.

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An elderberry spritzer sits on a white table with a lime wheel and flower in the glass, elderberry syrup kit beside it, and cinnamon sticks in a small bowl in front of it.

Elderberry Spritzer


  • Author: Julia Platt Leonard
  • Yield: 12 oz of Syrup 1x

Description

Put Megan’s elderberry syrup kit to good use.


Ingredients

Scale
  • Elderberry syrup
  • Sparkling water or wine

For the elderberry syrup:


Instructions

  1. Add the contents of the elderberry syrup kit to 2 cups of cold filtered water and bring to a boil.
  2. Lower to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes.
  3. Strain the juice through cheesecloth and let cool to room temperature.
  4. Mix in raw honey and store in the refrigerator.
  5. Add a few tablespoons of syrup to a tall glass full of ice. Top with sparkling water or prosecco for a refreshing drink.

Recipe by Julia Platt Leonard
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Kinilaw na Hipon (Filipino Ceviche)

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A small bowl of Kinilaw na Hipon (Filipino Ceviche) sits with a spoon in it on a woven tray next to tomatoes and citrus.

Kinilaw na Hipon is similar to Spanish Ceviche but with the Filipino addition of coconut milk that adds sweetness and balances the acidity ceviche depends on. Traditionally made with calamansi, a citrus endemic to the Philippines, a combination of lemons and limes works as a good substitute. Other types of fish like tuna work well with this recipe, but any fresh seafoods and shellfish can be used. Tapioca crackers are an excellent accompaniment to this dish, but you can also use tortilla chips or other crackers/chips of your preference.

A small bowl of shrimp ceviche in a white coconut milk next to two slices of citrus and with slices veggies as a garnish.

How Do We Prepare the Shrimp in Kinilaw na Hipon?

Kinilaw na hipon doesn’t use heat to cook the shrimp in this recipe. Instead, it relies on acid, usually from vinegar or citrus juice, to transform the meat. This process is called denaturation. When the shrimp meets an acidic ingredient, the proteins in the shrimp unravel and firm up. A similar process occurs when cooking with heat. As this happens, the shrimp changes from translucent gray to opaque and slightly pink, changing its texture. At the same time, the acid, along with the recipe’s seasonings, help establish a delicious flavor.

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A small bowl of Kinilaw na Hipon (Filipino Ceviche) sits with a spoon in it on a woven tray next to tomatoes and citrus.

Kinilaw na Hipon (Filipino Ceviche)


  • Author: Rafe Vencio

Description

Let these flavors transport you to the coastlines.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 1 lb prawns or tiger shrimp, peeled & deveined
  • 1 cup sugarcane vinegar or any white vinegar
  • 2 tbsp shallots or red onions, minced
  • 2 tbsp fresh ginger, minced
  • 1 tbsp fresh garlic, minced
  • 1 tsp small green chili, thinly sliced (optional)
  • 1 tsp patis (fish sauce)
  • 1/2 cup coconut milk
  • 1/2 cup citrus juice (any ratio of either or both lemon and lime)
  • 1/2 cup cucumber, peeled & seeded
  • 1/2 cup Roma tomatoes, seeded and small diced
  • Salt and ground white pepper to taste
  • Cilantro for garnish


Instructions

  1. Split the shrimp in half lengthwise along the spine and cut into smaller pieces; the smaller the cut the faster the shrimp will cure and influence the texture.
  2. Combine all ingredients and let marinate for about 10 to 15 minutes to cure the shrimp to your preferred doneness; you can let it sit longer to allow the raw shrimp to fully cure.

Recipe and Styling by Rafe Vencio
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Walk Through the Past at the New Mexico History Museum

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A Native American woman holding a piece of artwork shaped like a fish.

Discover the cultures, histories, and stories that make New Mexico unique at the New Mexico History Museum on the Santa Fe Plaza. 

Spend Your Day at the New Mexico History Museum

A draw for local residents and tourists alike, the museum offers something for everyone. Through exhibitions, collections, and historic structures, the museum aims to bring people together. 

The expansive array of exhibitions at the museum introduces visitors to a range of topics, communities, and cultures. On long-term display, Telling New Mexico: Stories from Then and Now highlights more than 500 years of history. Travel through time, understanding the realities of the many people who lived here: Native Americans, Spanish settlers, Mexican citizens, Santa Fe Trail riders, fur trappers, outlaws, Buffalo Soldiers, railroad workers, miners, scientists, hippies, artists, and photographers. Rotating exhibitions shed light on the fun, fascinating, and sometimes little-known parts of New Mexico’s history. 

Thousands of Years of Exhibits

One of the museum’s most recognizable structures is the Palace of the Governors. Dating back to 1610, the Palace of the Governors is the oldest public building in continues use constructed by European settlers. In recognition of its historical significance, the Palace has been designated a National Historic Landmark and is also recognized as a National Treasure by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Today, visitors can enjoy the hundreds of years of history in the walls of the Palace by exploring its variety of exhibitions, visiting the Palace Press, as well as meeting the artists who are part of the Native American Artisans Portal Program

The museum also serves as a hub for education and research. Visitors of all ages have access to programming and events year-round. The Fray Angélico Chávez History Library and the Palace of the Governors Photo Archives also provide access to more than a million historic photos and documents. The museum also launched its own digital collection which expands access to popular collections of photos related to Gustave Baumann, Fred Harvey, and Edgar L. Hewett.

A young Native American girl with mini rings used for dancing and an older gentleman with a hand drum.

Walk the museum’s galleries and see how the past brings the present to life. The museum is a destination for anyone who wants to learn and also understand the diverse histories and unique dynamics that have shaped New Mexico. 

Story Provided by New Mexico History Museum
Featured Photo by Wes Cunning
Museum Photography by Tira Howard

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Bourbon Cookie Bars

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Bourbon Cookie Bars sit frosted on a green plate.

Bourbon Cookie Bars ought to be in your hygge toolkit. A soft cookie bar full of pecans, raisins, and chocolate chips combines with a generous layer of boozy bourbon buttercream that will help make the edges of any stressful afternoon go pleasantly fuzzy. As with most cookies and bar recipes, you can add a dash of sustainability to the recipe by substituting a fifth of the flour by weight (40g, in this case) for a climate-resilient flour like rye, millet, or Kernza.

A person holds up a Bourbon Cookie Bar with a btie out of it amongst a table of other cookie bars.

Climate-resilient flours come from grains and crops that are better adapted to withstand environmental stress such as droughts, poor soil, and temperature swings all while requiring fewer chemical inputs. In the context of these Bourbon Cookie Bars, swapping in a portion of rye, millet, or Kernza flour adds a subtle nutty taste and a slightly heartier crumb along and helps practice sustainability. Kernza, for example, is a perennial grain with deep roots that help prevent soil erosion and capture carbon, while flours like millet thrive in dry conditions with minimal resources.

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Bourbon Cookie Bars sit frosted on a green plate.

Bourbon Cookie Bars


  • Author: Caroline Saunders

Description

For those hard days where a sweet treat is all that can heal your soul.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 1 ½ cups (195g) flour
  • ¾ tsp baking powder
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • ¾ cup margarine, softened to room temperature
  • ¾ cup light or dark brown sugar
  • 1 ½ tsp vanilla
  • 2 eggs
  • ⅓ cup bourbon
  • 1 cup toasted pecan pieces
  • ½ cup raisins
  • ½ cup chocolate chips

For the frosting:

  • 3 ½ cups powdered sugar
  • 6 tbsp margarine, softened to room temperature
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 3 tbsp bourbon


Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350F and lightly grease a 13 by 9 inch pan.
  2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the margarine, brown sugar, and vanilla on medium speed until the texture is fluffy and the color has lightened somewhat.
  3. Add the eggs one at a time, then beat on low-medium speed until well combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition.
  4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour(s), baking powder, and salt. Add this dry mixture to the margarine mixture alternately with the bourbon, in three parts each.
  5. Using a spatula, stir in the pecan pieces, raisins, and chocolate chips.
  6. Bake for 20-25 minutes.
  7. While the bars cool, prepare the frosting in a stand mixer. Combine the margarine and one cup of the powdered sugar, mixing on low-medium speed until well combined. Alternately add a tablespoon of bourbon and about a third of the remaining powdered sugar at a time, mixing after each addition (incorporating both ingredients gradually helps keep the frosting extra smooth). Add the vanilla.
  8. Once the bars have cooled, frost them directly in the pan using an offset spatula.
  9. Bars keep for up to four days in an airtight container at room temperature.

Recipe by Caroline Saunders
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Go Blue for Spring Fashion Trends in New Mexico

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A woman in a blue hat looks down at her blue jean shirt and pants with an orange bolo tie.

The daffodils are out and the irises aren’t far behind so it’s time to say hello to spring and the array of colors the season brings. This year, blue is the color we want to wear for spring fashion in New Mexico with its range of hues as well as reminder of a bright spring sky. Whether it’s a breathtaking pair of sapphire and diamond earrings or a practical (and beautiful) indigo tote, let blue guide your closet this season.

A pair of sapphire and silver earrings that dangle.

Golden Eye 

Plunge into the deep blue sea with these 1.75 ctw. pear-shaped sapphires. They are set in 18k gold as well as shimmer and sparkle thanks to .08 ctw. of dazzling diamonds. They’re pictured here with 18k large pavé diamond hoops which are sold separately.  

A small blue bag with a long black strap.

TOko 

Hester Van Eeghan left a life in law and literature to design leather goods. Today the brand she started in 1988 is synonymous with luxury, craftsmanship, and an exuberant love of color. This leather bag in blue features a zippered closure, adjustable leather strap, and a main compartment with a handy small pocket. Designed in Amsterdam and handmade with love in Italy.  

A woman in a blue hat looks down at her blue jean shirt and pants with an orange bolo tie.

High Noon General Store 

The Lake Hat is a custom collaboration between High Noon and Minga – a 4th generation hat-maker in Equador. Made of sheep’s wool, this classic hat is hand pressed with a 4 inch curved brim with creased crown, and cotton ribbon finishing. 

A blue pattern scarf wrapped around a mannequin neck.

Museum of New Mexico Foundation Shops

Spring may tease with warm days but don’t be fooled – the cold bite of winter loves to linger. This soft cashmere scarf is just the thing to keep you warm – and stylish – no matter what the weather.  

A dark blue fashion vest with small buttons.

TOko 

Graph Zero’s indigo cotton workwear vest proves that something well-constructed and highly wearable can be oh-so stylish too. Based in Kojima, Japan, Graph Zero is known for their highly original indigo cotton pieces, like this vest with its eye-catching asymmetrical buttoning. It’s also the perfect piece for your transitional seasonal wardrobe.  

A blue bag with leather handles and white dots.

Museum of New Mexico Foundation Shops

The Small East West Tote is not only smart looking but also smartly designed. It can hold a laptop comfortably and has removable handles so it can be washed. The distinctive indigo moon design is printed and dyed by a family of textile artists in Western India so each one is unique.  

Story by Julia Platt Leonard
Featured Photo From High Noon General Store

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Passover Indian Wheat and Herb Crackers

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A picture of small Passover crackers in a muffin tin beside fresh produce.

A botanical text written in the 16th century by the Spanish converso, doctor, physician and botantist Francisco Hernandez called History of the Plants of New Spain, mentions maize (corn), which he calls “Indian Wheat” and tortillas which he calls “Pan de Indias” (Indian Bread). He found the process of nixtamalization (corn soaked in an alkaline solution, cooked, and hulled, in order to increase its nutritional value), a process used in 16th century in Mexico to get the best tortillas. Salsa verde was already consumed before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 15th century, making this dish of Passover Indian Wheat and Herb Crackers with Salsa Verde one with deep historic roots.  

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A picture of small Passover crackers in a muffin tin beside fresh produce.

Passover Indian Wheat and Herb Crackers with Salsa Verde


  • Author: Hélène Jawhara-Piñer
  • Yield: Serves 4

Description

An ode to a historical recipe.


Ingredients

Scale

For the crackers:

  • ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 1 tbsp celery leaves, chopped
  • ½ cup arugula leaves, chopped
  • ½ cup masa harina
  • ⅓ cup water
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp salt
  • ¼ cup masa harina (to flour the parchment paper)
  • 1 tsp coarse salt (to sprinkle)
  • 1 tsp chili flakes (to sprinkle)

For the salsa verde:

  • 5 Mexican green tomatillos with husks
  • 5 green chiles Serrano or Jalapeño (use regular hot green chili for substitution)
  • 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled
  • 2 tsp salt
  • ¼ cup fresh cilantro and/or parsley, roughly chopped


Instructions

For the crackers:

  1. Preheat oven to 310 degrees.
  2. Combine all ingredients except for the coarse salt and the chili flakes and put the ball of dough in a plastic bag and freeze for 10 minutes.
  3. Flour a piece of parchment paper with corn flour, place the dough in the middle, and flour the top of the dough. Place another parchment paper over the dough.
  4. Roll the dough out between the two sheets of parchment paper until the dough is thin (about a tenth of an inch), and chill in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
  5. Place the parchment paper with dough on top of a baking tray. Remove the top parchment paper and sprinkle the dough with the chili flakes. Press carefully with a rolling pin or with your hands so the flakes stick to the dough.
  6. Use a cookie cutter to cut the dough into cracker shapes. They can be round or square. Do not remove them from the parchment paper. Sprinkle with the coarse salt.
  7. Bake for 20-30 minutes and then broil for 3 minutes. Be careful not to burn them.
  8. Let cool for 10 minutes before separating the crackers.

For the salsa verde:

  1. Heat an iron skillet to medium-high heat and sear the tomatillos, chiles, and garlic cloves for about 4 minutes, turning occasionally. Set aside.
  2. Remove the husks from the tomatillos. They should be soft to the touch.
  3. Take a blender or, better, a molcajete (or a mortar), and grind the cloves of garlic (without their peel) with the chiles until it forms a paste. Add the salt and half of the chopped cilantro/parsley and half of the charred tomatillos.
  4. Grind for a minute or two. Add the other half of the tomatillos and keep grinding, but not too much; you do not want a homogeneous paste. Add the remaining chopped herbs and stir.
  5. Pour in a bowl if ready to use, or in a sealed jar and store in the fridge.

Learn more about Passover and try other Sephardic foods in our article on the traditional seder.

Recipes appear in Jawhara-Piñer’s books, Matzah and Flour: Recipes from the History of the Sephardic Jews, and Sephardi: Cooking the History. Recipes of the Jews of Spain and the Diaspora, from the 13th Century to Today. To dig deeper into Jewish food history, read Jawhara-Piñer’s Jews, Food, and Spain: The Oldest Medieval Spanish Cookbook and the Sephardic Culinary Heritage

Recipe and Story by Hélène Jawhara-Piñer 
Food Styling and Preparation by Julia Platt Leonard
Photography by Gabriella Marks 

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The Castellanos’ Lamb and Lettuce Stew with Unsalted Bread 

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A bowl full of lamb and lettuce stew with strips of fried matzah around it.

The Castellanos family lived in Mexico City in the 16th century and observed Passover more than other Jewish holidays. Christian Holy Week and Passover usually fall close to one another, so the crypto-Jewish traditions of the Americas reflect a mix between Jewish practices and Christian ones. Back in Portugal, the Castellanos would have used chard but in the new world, substituted lettuce instead. The Castellanos ate this Lamb and Lettuce Stew with unsalted and unleavened bread.

Nowadays, we can still point to crypto-Jewish traditions that have endured through the centuries. In The International Review of Jewish Genealogy by Burqueño Edwin Berry explains that he “recalls his mother making what he says resembled unleavened bread once a year around Lent. It was like a long biscuit, and it was eaten only a few days of the year.” (See Secrecy and Deceit, by D. Gitlitz). This is an echo of the habits of the Castellanos and other crypto-Jewish families of the Spanish colonial era.

Eating lamb at Passover was also a custom among crypto-Jews in Mexico, as Salomón de Machorro (aka Juan de Leon) told Inquisitors in 1642.

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A bowl full of lamb and lettuce stew with strips of fried matzah around it.

The Castellanos’ Lamb and Lettuce Stew with Unsalted Bread 


  • Author: Hélène Jawhara-Piñer

Description

Warm up your soul and your stomach.


Ingredients

Scale

For the lamb:

  • 1 lb boneless lamb, shoulder or leg, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1 tsp ground ginger
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 2 tsp black pepper
  • 23 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • ½ cup chicken broth
  • 1 head of lettuce (butter or green leaf), washed and chopped
  • 12 tbsp honey
  • ½ cup raisins
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, to garnish
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro, to garnish
  • Matzah strips, to garnish

For the matzah:

  • 1 cup white wheat flour
  • 1½ cup masa harina
  • ½ cup + 2 tbsp cold water
  • Vegetable oil for frying


Instructions

For the lamb:

  1. In a large bowl, combine the cubed lamb, ginger, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper.
  2. Place in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate.
  3. The next day, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté gently until golden brown. Remove the onion mixture and set aside
  4. Add the lamb mixture and cook, turning the pieces over, until all sides are browned, adding another tablespoon of olive oil if needed.
  5. Add back the onion mixture back and stir to combine with the lamb.
  6. Pour in the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover the skillet and reduce the heat to low. Cook 3-4 hours until the lamb is almost tender. Add the lettuce, raisins, and stir in the honey and cook until the lamb is fully tender and falling apart and the lettuce is wilted. The sauce should be thickened. Taste and add more salt or honey as desired.
  7. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and cilantro. Serve hot with strips of matzah.

For the matzah:

  1. Prepare 2 sheets of plastic wrap that are a little bit larger than the tortilla press. They will be used for the tortilla press to avoid the dough sticking to the tortilla press sides. If you don’t have a tortilla press, you can roll out the dough between sheets of parchment paper.
  2. Mix the two flours. Progressively add the cold water to the flour and stir constantly until the flours absorbs all the water. Knead the dough for about 5 minutes. The dough should be moist to the touch.
  3. If using a tortilla press, cut the dough into 3 pieces and roll into balls the size of ping pong balls.
  4. Open the tortilla press, place a plastic sheet (or parchment paper) on the bottom, a ball of dough in the middle, and cover with the other plastic sheet. Close the tortilla press and press down to flatten the dough. Open the tortilla press and carefully remove the dough from the plastic wrap.
  5. Preheat your nonstick iron skillet to medium-high heat.
  6. Cut the dough into strips about ½ inch wide and lay the strips carefully onto the hot skillet coated with a small amount of oil. Fry the strips for about 15 seconds. Remove and place on a paper towel to drain.

Learn more about Passover and try other Sephardic foods in our article on the traditional seder.

Recipes appear in Jawhara-Piñer’s books, Matzah and Flour: Recipes from the History of the Sephardic Jews, and Sephardi: Cooking the History. Recipes of the Jews of Spain and the Diaspora, from the 13th Century to Today. To dig deeper into Jewish food history, read Jawhara-Piñer’s Jews, Food, and Spain: The Oldest Medieval Spanish Cookbook and the Sephardic Culinary Heritage

Recipe and Story by Hélène Jawhara-Piñer 
Food Styling and Preparation by Julia Platt Leonard
Photography by Gabriella Marks 

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