Mark Kiffin, chef-owner at The Compound in Santa Fe talks to TABLE about his penchant for potatoes, popcorn, and a dream meal he’d like to share with his wife, Barbara. Plus, learn what culinary essential he never travels without.
Proust Questionnaire with Mark Kiffin
Red, green, or Christmas?
Always green…and I was born on Christmas Day!
What qualities make for a great restaurant?
Consistency of food, and especially the staff.
What qualities make for a great chef?
Now, patience. When I came up, pure hard work and long hours to get to the next level.
What makes you a great chef?
I have a greater respect for the craft and desire to please the guest.
What makes your restaurant special?
Care of ingredients.
What inspired you to become a chef?
My mom didn’t cook.
What do you appreciate most/look for in your sous chefs?
Take care of the staff, no waste.
What is your favorite ingredient?
Potatoes.
What is your favorite dish you make?
Right now, I make pancakes for my daughter every day, even when traveling the world I bring a small stove, pan, and spatula!
When you’re not working, where can we find you?
At home or around the world with my wife and daughter. We travel, eat, see, and learn!
What is your guilty pleasure?
Smartfood white cheddar popcorn…we always have it.
If you weren’t a chef what would you be?
What I will be is RETIRED! Nothing else.
What’s the best meal you ever had?
Too many to note, but they almost all involve being with my wife, Barbara.
If you could make a dinner reservation anywhere in the world…?
Probably Los Diamantes in Granada, Spain (again with my wife)…if you know, you know.
What is your first food memory?
Thanksgiving at my grandmother’s.
Story by Julia Platt Leonard Photo courtesy of The Compound
There’s a nip in the air. The promise of snow send us indoors hoping for a crackling fire and a warming cocktail. Caley Shoemaker, co-founder and master distiller at As Above So Below, is here to help. She obliges us with the Palazzo, a drink designed for just these moments.
The Palazzo Recipe
The Palazzo is a soul-restoring blend of grapefruit, gentian liqueur (made from the root of a tall flower grown in the Alps), vermouth, Arcadia aperitivo, and Astrologist bourbon. The latter is the star of the show. It’s a high rye bourbon aged four years in New American oak, then finished with six years in French oak casks. These casks once held Stag’s Leap Cabernet from Napa Valley. As Shoemaker says, “This evolutionary, long matured bourbon offers aromas of hazelnut and marzipan. It also offers hints of black currant, cacao and toasted pumpernickel. It glides across the palate, leaving lingering hints of dulce de leche.” The Palazzo benefits beautifully from all of these flavors.
We can’t think of anything better on a cold winter’s day or night. Try mixing up your own at home, perhaps as a prelude to a hearty, warming dinner of Grilled Tomahawk Steak. with a serving of
Some travel for culture while some want a deep dive into the flavors and foods of a place through a culinary tour. The good news? You can have both.
Do you dream of steeping yourself in the timeless splendor of Morocco, exploring the souks of Marrakech, and learning about the pleasures of Moroccan cuisine? Or traveling through the Amalfi Coast of Italy, where picture-perfect villages hang from sheer cliffs over the impossibly blue Mediterranean, and learning to make mozzarella, pasta, pizza, and more from local masters?
Friend, Table contributor, and four-time James Beard award-winning cookbook author Cheryl Alters Jamison, leads culinary adventure trips to dazzling Morocco, Italy’s dramatic Amalfi Coast, and also the sun-drenched South of France. You’re in good hands as she partners with award-winning, woman-owned French travel company Tour with Absolutely. There are still a few spaces left on her Marrakech and Amalfi Coast trips. These are small groups with no more than a dozen like-minded folks.
Travel Through an Exceptional Culinary Tour of Italy and Morocco
Marrakech, Morocco
May 17-24, 2025
An elegant Riad (inn) is your home as you explore the souks, and shop for everything from spices to rugs and textiles. Immerse yourself in Moroccan food culture with market stall tastings, cooking workshops, and even a saffron farm visit. There is dinner and a garden tour at La Mamounia, one of the world’s grandest hotels, as well as a visits to the striking Majorelle Gardens, and the Yves St. Laurent Museum. Journey to the seaside town of Essaouira, and take in the sunset at a dinner in the Agafay desert before you unwind with a traditional hammam scrub and massage treatment.
Italy’s Amalfi Coast
October 5-12, 2025
You’re cliffside for four nights at Ondo Verde Hotel in Praiano, followed by three nights in Naples’ grand baroque hotel, Art Galleria Umberto. Spend your days exploring the seaside pleasures of Positano, Minori, Amalfi, Ravello, Sorrento, Capri Island, and historic Naples. You’ll learn about pasta, pizza, limoncello, and mozzarella-making, and then devour the results. Visit a famed winery, shop for ceramics and other treasures, experience art and architecture, board boats and take to the sea, all the while immersing yourself in a rich food culture.
Don’t miss your chance to be a part of one of these delicious culinary adventures, hosted by one of our favorite people.
Story by Julia Platt Leonard Photos Courtesy of Cheryl Alters Jamison
TABLE chatted with La Posada’s Executive Chef Israel Castro who spilled the beans on the power of a smiling customer, his mom’s home cooking, and that game changing rack of lamb.
Proust Questionnaire with Israel Castro
Red, green, or Christmas?
While both red and green chiles have their merits, the distinct qualities of green chiles often win my heart.
What qualities make for a great restaurant?
Consistent quality in food preparation builds trust. Customers return when they know they can always expect the same great taste. Every dish can tell a story; sharing the origin of ingredients or the inspiration behind recipes adds depth and connection. A well-executed meal can leave a lasting impression. Unique presentations or unexpected flavor combinations can create that “WOW” moment. By focusing on these elements, food can transcend the ordinary and become an unforgettable experience!
What qualities make for a great chef?
Integrity is essential in the kitchen. It fosters trust between staff and guests. When the team acts with honesty, it enhances the overall experience. A love for food drives creativity. It encourages chefs to experiment with flavors and presentation. This passion is reflected in every dish served. A genuine love for hospitality creates memorable experiences. It motivates staff to go the extra mile for guests. This dedication is what sets a business apart. The back-of-the-house team is vital. They work tirelessly to ensure smooth operations. Their efforts deserve recognition and appreciation. Each of these elements contributes to a thriving culinary environment, ensuring guest satisfaction and team morale.
What makes you a great chef?
Love for food and industry My love for food drives my creativity in the kitchen. I enjoy experimenting with flavors and techniques to create delicious and unique dishes. Cooking allows me to connect with people. Sharing meals fosters relationships and creates lasting memories with friends and family. There’s immense joy in seeing others enjoy my food. Their smiles and compliments motivate me to continue honing my craft as a chef. These elements combine to enhance my skills and passion, making me a passionate chef who values both food and people.
What inspired you to become a chef?
My mom’s cooking was always special. She believed that food could unite people. Every meal was made with love and care and she would spend hours in the kitchen preparing dishes that filled the house with delicious aromas. Each bite was a reminder of our shared moments, for her, cooking was not just a task; it was an art form. She taught us that food fosters connection and strengthens bonds. It shaped my early experiences with food. Then, everything changed.
I began to notice the vibrant colors on my plate. Each hue told a story of freshness and flavor. The shapes of different foods sparked my creativity. I started experimenting with herbs and spices. Proteins became more than just a source of energy; they were a canvas for culinary art. Sweets transformed into delightful creations that delighted the senses. Textures played a vital role in my dishes, adding depth and interest. The world of food opened up to me, revealing endless possibilities. Each meal became an adventure waiting to unfold.
What do you appreciate most/look for in your sous chefs?
The things I cannot show or teach; passion, integrity, creativity, and love for food and people. Passion is a fire that burns within. It drives you to pursue what you love. You can’t teach someone to feel it deeply. Integrity is about staying true to your values. It’s a personal commitment that comes from within. You can guide, but the choice is theirs. Creativity flows from the soul. It’s an expression of individuality that can’t be forced. You can inspire, but each person must find their voice. Love for food and people is about connection. It’s a joy that encompasses sharing experiences and flavors. You can share meals, but the feelings must be genuine. These qualities are deeply personal. They shape who we are and how we interact with the world.
What is your favorite ingredient?
Citrus; it adds a bright and zesty taste to dishes. It can enhance both savory and sweet recipes.
What is your favorite dish you make?
Tacos are a favorite dish in my kitchen, bringing joy and flavor to every meal.
When you’re not working, where can we find you?
When I’m not working, I cherish my time outdoors with the love of my life. The outdoors is our escape from daily stress and routine. It’s a beautiful way to connect and enjoy life together. I also enjoy spending quality time with my family and my son.
What is your guilty pleasure?
Dunkin Donuts!
If you could make a dinner reservation anywhere in the world…?
When I started in this industry, I worked as a dishwasher. It was a humble beginning, but it taught me a lot. After a long day, I was given the responsibility of closing the kitchen. This was a big step for me. I had to ensure everything was clean and organized. One day, the Executive Chef arrived late, around 11:40 PM. By that time, the restaurant was empty.
He was busy prepping the special of the day and carefully selected each ingredient. When he finished, he presented a stunning dish: a Rack of Lamb. The colors were vibrant, and the plating was impeccable. The aroma filled the air, making my mouth water. It was a true masterpiece, showcasing his talent and passion for culinary art.
At just 16 years old, I had never truly appreciated lamb before. The dish I tasted was a revelation. It was expertly seasoned, rich, and tender. Each bite opened my eyes to new possibilities. This experience sparked a passion within me. It made me eager to experiment in the kitchen. I realized that food could tell stories and evoke emotions. This moment was a turning point in my culinary journey.
Story by Julia Platt Leonard Photo Courtesy of Chef Israel Castro
The International Folk Art Market is a platform for artists to share their crafts and stories, but it is also a place where people come together to celebrate the beauty and diversity of our world.
Sharing a meal reminds us of the power of food and community to bring people together and create meaningful experiences that last for years. TABLE’s online editor, Gabe Gomez, took part in a dinner prepared by some of IFAM’s artists from India.
Traditional Artist Dinners, An International Folk Art Market Tradition
The end of each Market is a time to celebrate the hard work and dedication of the artists who have traveled from all over the world to showcase their crafts. It also highlights the staff and volunteers who have made the event possible. Artist groups from around the world often get together to prepare and share meals while reconnecting with friends. From Uzbek palov to Guatemalan pepian, artist dinners are a Market tradition.
Abduljabbar M. Khatri & Abdullah M. Khatri are owners of Sidr Craft, an organization committed to preserving traditional bandhani textile techniques. They provide employment opportunities for women in rural areas of Kutch and Gujarat, India.
Bandhani is an ancient Indian textile art form that gets its name from the phrase “tying up.”Artists tie small portions of fabric with thread to create intricate patterns, then dye the fabric using a complex, layered process.
The Art and Heart of Bandhani
The Khatri brothers have been participating in the Market for years. At the home of Market volunteers Kate Rowe and her husband, the brothers prepared a traditional meal of khava (mutton pulao) and Spicy Pan-Fried Salmon for fellow Indian artists and friends. And like the bandhani scarves their produce, the meal required mastery of the craft to achieve a beautiful and delicious result.
Throughout the evening, stories about the year’s Market filled the air. Sardinian jewelers Ansula and Andrea Usai from KOKKU, joined the festivities, as did new and veteran Market artists. Sharing food and stories helps people form new friendships and strengthen old ones. This creates a sense of belonging and connection that transcends cultural boundaries.
Khava (Mutton Pulao)
This aromatic rice dish is a vibrant celebration of Indian flavors and textures. It is often served during special gatherings like those at the International Folk Art Market. Layered with warm spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves, the recipe balances savory and sweet. The flavors of caramelized onions, golden raisins, and a touch of sugar fold in. Additionally, marinated mutton adds rich depth, while saffron-infused milk brings a subtle floral warmth and beautiful golden hue to the basmati rice.
A warming and filling dish for special gatherings.
Ingredients
Scale
3 lb ground mutton
1 tsp ginger, mashed in mortar and pestle
1 tsp garlic, mashed in mortar and pestle
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp dhana jeera powder
Pinch of black pepper
1/2 cup milk
Pinch of saffron
1/3 cup raisins
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cinnamon stick
5 green cardamom pods
3 cloves
2 bay leaves
3 onions, sliced
1 long green chili pepper, thinly sliced
5 tsp sugar
Pinch of salt
2 cups basmati rice
Instructions
Marinate the mutton in ginger, garlic, chili powder, dhana jeera, and black pepper for 30 minutes.
Heat milk and add saffron. Sit for 10 minutes.
Rehydrate raisins in a bowl with hot water. Drain and set aside.
Over medium heat, add oil, cinnamon stick, green cardamom pods, cloves, and bay leaves. Stir over heat for two minutes.
Add onions and chili peppers until caramelized. Remove onions and spices from the pot.
Add the meat and cook until browned.
Return the onion and spices to the pot.
Add raisins, sugar, salt, saffron milk, and rice. Add four cups of water and bring to boil.
Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15-20 minutes until liquid is absorbed.
Stir and serve warm.
Spicy Pan-Fried Salmon
This pan-fried salmon recipe is a bold and flavorful take on Indian coastal cuisine. Fresh fish meets an aromatic marinade rich with garam masala, cumin, turmeric, and citrus. The overnight marination allows the spices to deeply infuse the salmon. Pan-frying locks in moisture and creates a lightly crisped exterior.
Clean and dry the salmon filets, removing any bones.
Combine salt, black pepper, ginger and garlic paste, garam masala, cumin, coriander powder, turmeric powder, cayenne, lemon juice, and water. Mix well.
Add the salmon to the mixture and coat entire fillet. Fish can marinate from 2-24 hours. We recommend marinating overnight for best results.
Remove excess marinade from the fish. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Pan-fry fish for 4 minutes on each side. It’s always best to lower the heat to avoid burning the marinade, which can make the spices bitter.
Transfer fish to a clean platter or plate to rest. The fish will continue to cook when it’s off the skillet.
Enjoy the fish with fresh cucumber wedges and rice with a little lemon squeeze.
Story and Recipes by Gabe Gomez Photography by Tira Howard
Escape to the beautiful winter wonderland of Taos for a long weekend celebrating the art of fine wine and culinary excellence at the Taos Winter Wine Festival from January 29 to February 2! This captivating event brings together some of the finest wineries and Taos’s top chefs for an unforgettable experience. Indulge in a series of decadent events, including chef luncheons, après-ski tastings, wine dinners, and two spectacular tastings.
Reserve Tasting: Savor signature dishes from local restaurants along with special reserve wines from 30 esteemed wineries.
Grand Tasting: Embark on a culinary adventure featuring 30 wineries pouring alongside paired bites from Taos’ and Taos Ski Valley’s finest restaurants.
Whether you’re a passionate skier, a food and wine enthusiast, or simply seeking a luxurious winter getaway, the Taos Winter Wine Festival promises an experience that will tantalize your senses.
Taos Winter Wine Festival Giveaway
Want to experience the magic for free? We’re giving away a pair of tickets to the Reserve Tasting and a pair of tickets to the Grand Tasting! Simply sign up for our newsletter below to enter for a chance to win. Don’t miss this opportunity to indulge in the best of Taos!
By entering your email you agree to the competition terms and conditions.
The restaurants of New Mexico provide us with innovative menus, traditional ingredients and influences, and a whole lot of deliciousness. This year, the 2025 James Beard Awards has chosen eight of these New Mexico establishments, chefs, and beverage professionals as semi-finalists for awards honoring their exceptional food, food media content, and better food systems, all while demonstrating a commitment to racial and gender equity, community, and sustainability. TABLE Magazine congratulates the semi-finalists!
8 New Mexico Restaurants Make 2025 James Beard Semi-Finalists List
This bakery in Albuquerque is servings up the freshest Vietnamese treats possible as their bakers start early each morning to deliver quality results. Each pastry or baked good is handcrafted with time and true techniques along with the finest ingredients to bring tastes from across the ocean to New Mexico.
While the outstanding food from Campo at Los Poblanos may be your first thought when you hear their name, their wine and beverage program is just as excellent. A lot of the components of their drinks are made in-house but they also outsource fresh organic ingredients and small-batch barrel-aged spirits. Their cocktail program’s success truly takes a village all the way from gardeners to mixologists.
Kate Gerwin at Happy Accidents Bar is an award-winning bartender who’s dedication expands from cocktails to customers alike. Her service at Happy Accidents oozes professionalism mixed with a sense of unique creativity. A lot of her recipes use unexpected ingredients such as leeks, mushroom infused tequilia, cocoa puff cereal infused mezcal, and much more.
Cristian Pontiggia, Sassella, Santa Fe, NM for Best Chef Southwest (AZ, NM, NV, OK)
Authentic, Italian fine dining are the ways of Cristian Pontiggia, chef of Sassella. Pontiggia’s work focuses on the Lombardy region of Italy, serving up dishes like Branzino Natalizo and Risotto alla Valtellinese. Just one bit of his modern twist on traditional Italian foods and you’ll be able to see his prestigious kitchen background shine.
Her roots in Latin American cuisine influences Kattia Rojas’ goal of cultural representation within New Mexico. For over 10 years, she has been infusing her own Latin flavor into dishes we all know and love. Her work at Buen Provecho shows itself through a menu including deep fried plantains, various tamales, and Costa Rican specialties.
You may recognize Fernando Ruiz from his three Food Network wins on Beat Bobby Flay, Guy’s Grocery Games, and Chopped. At Escondido, he combines a blend of Coastal and Northern Mexico regions using only the freshest seafood and other ingredients available. Even his dishes using chicken mole, barbacoa, al pastor, and carne asada are sourced from Northern New Mexico ranches and the US Southwest.
Highlighting the flavors and cultural cuisine of New Mexico is the work horse behind Sean Sinclair’s menu. This chef at Level 5 is always creating new seasonally inspired menus to amaze guests. Most recently he works red chili into different dishes such as ABQ Style Popcorn, Bison Sliders, and their Ramon Perez Ranch Beef.
Joseph Wrede of Joseph’s Culinary Pub works to bring local dishes and ingredients to the New Mexico table. He enjoys playing with various textures and flavors to make something entirely new. He’s especially known for his use of duck fat to elevate dishes you would not expect. Through it all, he keeps a rotating, seasonal menu at the heart of Joseph’s Culinary Pub so you always have something new and in season to taste.
We talk to Lucas Swallows, corporate mixologist for Heritage Hotels, about smoke and mirrors, a dream drink in Mexico City, and why guilt isn’t a word in his vocabulary.
Proust Questionnaire with Lucas Swallowsof Heritage Hotels
Tequila or Mezcal?
A balanced menu should include both Tequila and Mezcal as they offer very different aromatics. I use Mezcal as a “smoky seasoning” at times, lending a dynamic contrast to botanical-forward spirits like gin or tequila.
What makes a great bar?
A good bar fits the boundless world of imagination into the strict constraints of reality.
What makes a great bartender?
Bartenders, like all service team members, should be stewards to the ideas and products that their project is putting forth to their community. Proficient menu knowledge, accurate, consistent execution of menu items, and a friendly delivery are a great start.
What makes you a great bartender?
Experience. Not being afraid to fail forward.
What inspired you to become a bartender?
I love to cook (back of house) and create layers of flavors, textures and aromatics. I also love being host to the experience (front of house). Mixology was a way to bridge the two.
What you appreciate most in your fellow bartenders?
You know you’re with the right team when a busy service looks and feels like a choreographed dance.
What is your favorite ingredient/liquor to use?
I enjoy adding smoky nuance to fruit and floral driven cocktails, sometimes drops at a time, using Islay Scotch and Mezcal.
What is your signature drink and describe it?
“Smoke and Mirrors.” It’s an example of how fine flavors are derived from balancing freshness with smoke. A playful juxtaposition of floral, fresh citrus, and agave, against roasted barley spirit and smoked peat that includes Tequila Reposado, Elderflower liqueur, lemon, and Islay Whisky.
What makes for a great evening out when you’re not at work?
I’m on the constant hunt for authentic food and beverage experiences. From a hole-in-the-wall to a critically acclaimed project, my hope is to learn to eat and imbibe.
There are nearly 800 hotels across the 122,000 square miles of New Mexico. They offer everything from budget-conscious accommodations to luxurious world-class indulgences. Thankfully, tucked inside so many of these gems, you can find some of the best examples of the state’s great and diverse cuisine. Contributing writer Bill Smith shares some of the exciting changes in a number of the dining establishments inside Heritage Hotels.
Heritage Hotels’ Restaurant Magic in New Mexico
Founded in 2005, Albuquerque-based Heritage Hotels & Resorts now has a portfolio of some ten properties – from Taos to Las Cruces – where visitors and locals alike can also take in New Mexico’s cultural heritage.
What Heritage also brings to the table are gorgeous and iconic properties that serve as the perfect backdrop for incredible culinary explorations.
“Exceptional dining adds to the customer experience at our properties,” said Jim Long, Founder & CEO of Heritage Hotels. “Our goal is to invest in great talent and give them the resources they need to deliver great food and great experiences for our guests,” he continued.
A Little Something For Everyone at Heritage Hotels
Over the past many months, evolutions in Heritage Hotels food offerings have underscored what Jim Long described as a “serious effort” on the part of the company to become a bigger player in the space.
Level 5 at Hotel Chaco
The group’s portfolio ranges from large properties with mammoth conference and meeting spaces like Hotel Albuquerque in Old Town and Santa Fe’s Hotel Eldorado to the decidedly more intimate, including Hotel Chaco located in downtown Albuquerque.
Part of a complete reimagination of the neighborhood where the hotel sits, Hotel Chaco is a luxurious feast for the eyes. All the more reason then, that last year, foodies gleefully took note when James Beard Foundation semifinalist, acclaimed Chef Marc Quinones landed at Level 5, the rooftop dining space of the hotel.
Chef Sean Sinclair
A New Menu From Chef Sean Sinclair
After his departure from Level 5 earlier this year, Heritage offered the space to Chef Sean Sinclair. Sinclair honed his skills at a number of venues, including the 3-star Michelin restaurant, the Inn at Little Washington, outside Washington, DC. He also developed a sound following in the state for doing extraordinary things at the Castaneda Hotel in Las Vegas (NM).
Chef Sean’s first menu is a stunner. An array of simple “snacks” to enjoy in the outdoor lounge area includes potato tostones with a creamy herbaceous dressing, ABQ-style popcorn (with chile, of course), and a delectable Australian farm cheese served with local Heidi’s raspberry jam and thin, baked crisps. Main courses include suckling pig matanza-style, a duo of duck, and a decadent rainbow trout whose sauce is from a tomato water reduction with butter. This is, pardon the pun, next-level cuisine.
Chef Gilbert Aragon
Chef Gilbert Aragon’s Touch on Heritage Hotels
At Heritage’s Hotel St. Francis in Santa Fe, Wolf and Roadrunner has opened in the austerely elegant dining room and is helmed by Chef Gilbert Aragon. Aragon has worked his way up through Heritage Hotels over the past 16 years. He also speaks affectionately of the mentorship provided to him by southwest chef extraordinaire, Mark Miller. The initial menu is built around what Aragon describes as his love for “world cuisine.” While the dining room seems to have gone dark for the winter months, Wolf and Roadrunner is still servicing the hotel’s time-tested Secreto Lounge with ample provisions for an evening out.
Wolf and Roadrunner at Heritage’s Hotel St. Francis
Taking Simple to Next Level With Chef Jonathan Perno
Finally, at the restaurant Luminaria inside Inn & Spa at Loretto, which Heritage acquired in 2017, Chef Jonathan Perno temporarily came on board as the Executive Chef to help develop and launch a new set of menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Formerly of Campo at Los Poblanos in Ranchos de Albuquerque, where he spent 14 years, Perno earned accolades for innovative cuisine rooted in New Mexico. In 2020 he was a finalist for Best Chef of the Southwest by the James Beard Foundation.
Chef Jonathan Perno
As an appetizer, a humble head of cauliflower is transformed by simple roasting, spiced with zatar and a sprinkling of dried orange zest, and served over a base of guacamole. A marinated shrimp appetizer is accentuated by “hard herbs” and a hint of heat from chile oil, with texture being tended to by a duo of sweet potato chips and a puree. Then, a squeeze of a lime wedge adds acid and citrus.
The sauteed halibut main course benefits from studded rosemary and garlic in the flesh of the fish, imparting a depth of flavor – something Perno said he learned from Chef Eric Ripert. The real star of the dish is “Bobby’s Potatoes,” an honor to Perno’s partner’s mother, the potatoes simmered in cream with onions, celery, and capers. The Red Chile Braised Short Ribs, also served over perfectly seasoned polenta, are every bit New Mexico with the red chile glaze providing just the right amount of heat and flavor.
Luminaria at Loretto
This Winter Menu is Just the Beginning
Hal Leonard, General Manager of Inn & Spa at Loretto, told TABLE that while Perno has now departed Luminaria, his menus are in place and the kitchen team was trained to execute them with fidelity.
The winter dining scene is an exciting one for what Heritage Hotels is offering up in their restaurants. And what lies ahead for Heritage’s culinary journey is a point of excitement for Long. “What you see is just the tip of the iceberg for what is coming,” he exclaimed.
Story by Bill Smith Food Photography by Tira Howard
In 2024, Open Kitchen expanded its vision with the opening of Alkemē, a Santa Fe restaurant that brings “Culture-to-Table” dining to life. Within months, Alkemē was named a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best New Restaurant, cementing Open Kitchen’s reputation for creativity and innovation.
Open Kitchen’s First Meet The Makers Wine Dinner at Alkemē
Open Kitchen is known for cooking up flavorful fun at catered events, cooking classes, private parties, and other edible experiences. In 2022, a special gathering of dinner guests took things to new heights when this collaborative hub hosted an artful evening of creativity, camaraderie, and delight.
Part of the joy came from friends and strangers reconnecting after two years of pandemic isolation. But much more was at work. The event marked Open Kitchen’s inaugural Meet the Makers Collaborative Wine Dinner, pairing Beck & Bulow’s premium meats and seafood with Vivac Winery’s award-winning New Mexico wines. Six courses of Open Kitchen’s culinary wizardry followed. The result felt like true alchemy.
“It was such a beautiful night and it really made my heart sing,” said Open Kitchen founder and chef Hue-Chan Karels. “There was a wonderful perfect storm, so to speak. During the pandemic there was such a hunger for gathering and people craved the desire for everyone coming together. We had 45 people, packed, it was a sell-out. Everyone was feeling a specialness to be among each other. There was a hunger for connection, a hunger for seeing food created in a very special way.”
Food as Art
Each dish at this dinner seemed to spring from a meditation on beauty and melody. With a symphony of flavors, the presentations resembled still-life paintings.
Take the passed hors d’oeuvres: Wild Boar Bacon Mille Feuille with Citrus Mascarpone Cheese and Mini Bao with Gochujang-Hibiscus Candied Salmon Belly, featuring Beck & Bulow’s specialty meats. The colors and composition created artistry that looked almost too good to eat. Vivac Winery’s 2020 Rosé of Sangiovese added light, bright berry notes.
“We’re very color-oriented,” Karels said. “We always make a plate like a painting. At Open Kitchen, we do cooking classes and we always want to teach people to honor ingredients, to really look at the beauty of it before you cook it, and how you preserve the beauty despite the cooking.”
The Flavors of the Evening
Plate after plate arrived: Silky Elk Ravioli with Creamy Purple Potato, Blackened Yellow Tomato Sauce & Basil Oil; Pan-Roasted Wild Caught Alaskan Sablefish with Miso Beurre Blanc, Cauliflower Purée, Crispy Swiss Chard & Squid Ink Tuile; and Wild Cedar Muscovy Duck Breast with Pearl Couscous, Roasted King Oyster Mushroom & Wilted Greens.
Vivac’s wines flowed freely—Chardonnay, Abbot Merlot, and a dry Riesling made in an Alsace style. Karels noted the crowd favorite: the ravioli. “Everyone’s favorite dish, it seemed, was the ravioli,” Karels said. “You can’t beat hand-made ravioli. We used spinach and yellow bean, making it by hand. We love the look and the taste of the purple potatoes, and the black and yellow tomato sauce is an inspiration from one of Chef Mark Miller’s sauces so we kind of jazzed that in, and the fresh basil oil. Everything we do, I literally spend weeks, sleepless nights, trying to imagine how the flavors will come together. Most often it does really work.”
A Team Effort
Open Kitchen began as a collaborative culinary center, and Karels credits her team for its success. She highlights chef de cuisine Erica Tai: “Erica Tai is my second hand, the chef de cuisine. She was one of Santa Fe Community College’s Culinary Program students working with me nonstop during the pandemic, when we were making prepared meals, and now we have the ability to make inspiring food for people.
It takes a lot to be a chef these days—it’s not just cooking, it’s creating what you do in a special way and she has been amazing. We’re not like regular restaurants where we have menus that are static for a year. Every menu that we do is new, and creating and executing the vision is a talent that you have to have in your repertoire to make it in this new world of this industry. Erica has that amazing skill to create beautiful food and she’s very disciplined.”
Celebrating the Makers
Naturally, the dinner featured the makers themselves, who were thrilled by the pairings. “It was a knock-it-out-of-the-park evening all around,” said Chris Padberg, co-owner, co-founder and winemaker at Vivac Winery in Dixon. “When we’re doing a wine dinner with a chef, it’s hard to know what to expect. Sometimes the pairing won’t work or the dishes will be awful or the people—you have to win them over and make them love you while you’re talking to them. If you can’t do that, it can be kind of a dead night. But from the get-go to the end, that crowd was ready to party and be happy.”
Beck & Bulow’s co-owners, Tony Beck and J.P. Bulow, were equally impressed. “Our heartfelt thanks goes to Open Kitchen for honoring the makers,” said Bulow. “We want to pass that honor to these amazing, life-changing meats and seafoods that were featured. The best chefs use the best ingredients, so it was great to work with Chef Hue-Chan who highlighted our local bison, elk, and Alaskan wild salmon and sablefish.”
Every menu Open Kitchen creates is new, opening up avenues of culinary creativity and beautiful presentation.
Story by Lynn Cline Photography by Tira Howard Food Styling by Keith Recker
