Chef Olive Tyrrell (and Pastry Chef Chase Maus, who joined Olive for a season at the Kitchen) invited TABLE in for an afternoon of seasonal summer recipes in the Kitchen, a singular and singularly appealing restaurant.
There’s no menu and it’s lunch only. Dishes change daily and they’re always vegetarian. The kitchen is open and the chefs not only cook the food but serve it and clean up afterward. For an intensely loyal band of customers and lucky first-timers able to nab a reservation, the Kitchen at Plants of the Southwest is more like eating at a best friend’s home than a restaurant. And every bite you eat is driven by what’s available and in season from local farmers.
Tasting the Summer Season Recipes at the Kitchen Santa Fe
A Harvest Mix of Peppers
Jimmy Nardello and Lipstick peppers pan seared with garlic – both from Desert Frost Farms – sit atop a swirl of creamy labneh that’s finished with a generous sprinkling of toasted pine nuts. Something so simple but point perfect. “We like real food,” says Olive, “and we want people to feel nourished and happy and excited and inspired by the food.”
Roasted Cabbage Salad
Olive roasts wedges of cabbage and serves them with quick pickled cucumbers and sliced apples and pears from Plants of the Southwest’s own fruit trees. Herbs from their garden and tangy cornichons add to the mix and the entire creation is topped off with a creamy dill vinaigrette. A perfect summer salad that takes inspiration from local farmers and the nursery itself. “Since we’re on the grounds of a plant nursery, why not highlight a plant-based diet? You make that connection between what you can eat, and what’s on the land,” she says.
Little Gem Salad
Slivers of pears and Japanese turnips from La Capilla Farm, briny capers, and roasted farm carrots from Desert Frost Farms sit alongside crunchy little gem lettuce from Ground Stone Farm. A salad starts off every meal at the Kitchen which is always two-courses (three if you’re smart and order dessert) and always vegetarian. “When I first started, people looked at me like I had two heads when I told them there was no menu and no choice and it was vegetarian. People were either upset, or disgruntled, or pleasantly surprised,” Olive laughs.
Roasted Tomato Salad
Tomatoes are roasted whole on the vine and served with bitefuls of baby mozzarella and inky black olives. A simple drizzle of olive oil and just-picked fresh mint leaves and chive flowers, and the dish is complete. Olive’s cooking depends on what’s available, not by a recipe. “I have no idea what I’m going to make with it. I just know that I want to buy it and then I’ll figure it out. And sometimes I figure it out on the fly. I like that it keeps me challenged and excited and happy in the moment.”
Fresh Tomato Salad with Tahini Dressing & Dukkah
Raw tomatoes are adorned simply with a tahini dressing and dukkah – a house-made blend of sesame seeds, poppy seeds, pistachios, and coriander seeds that are toasted and crushed in a mortar and pestle. Something like a perfectly ripe tomato should always take center stage, Olive feels. “Watching and waiting for different foods all year is really exciting,” she says. “You know when this tree is going to bloom or this thing is going to be in season and then you get to plan your menu around that. And people get really excited about it.”
Charred Lemon Sparkling Soda
The perfect summer quencher made with the Kitchen’s own local herb-infused simple syrup. Not only does Olive work closely with local farmers but also draws on fruit and herbs from the nursery. It’s an idea of casual dining that’s European in feel. “You can find these little places in Italy or France where the mom and dad are growing everything, and they cook, and you eat whatever they make. That’s the idea.”
Citrus and Sage-infused Olive Oil Cake
A classic olive oil cake with hints of citrus and sage gets a topping of cardamom, mascarpone, and tahini frosting. A heady mix of stewed and spiced apples from Plants of the Southwest’s fruit trees finishes it off to perfection. Sage brings a savory element to the dessert that Chase seeks in his baking. “Sage and bay leaf have always been a go-to for me when balancing the sweet with the savory. They both have such a complex depth.”
Souffléd Pumpkin Cheesecake
The first pumpkins of the season inspire this earthy cheesecake that is redolent of vanilla, nutmeg and cloves. It has a peppercorn and apple cider vinegar caramel, sage leaves, and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt on top. Of his time at the Kitchen, Chase says it was an invaluable opportunity to connect with local farmers. “The more we can do to bring ourselves in closer contact to farms, the better it is for us as creators … as humans. It feels so special to directly contribute to the success of local farmers and to showcase their beautiful crop. An honor really!”
Special thanks to Gail Haggard owner of Plants of the Southwest. The Kitchen is open from March 26 through late October. Pastry Chef Emelie Richardson returns this season to join Olive in the kitchen. 595-913-1911
Story by Julia Platt Leonard
Recipes by Chef Olive Tyrrell
Photography by Tira Howard
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