The idea is simple: food that is expertly cooked, doesn’t cost a fortune, and comes with a welcome that feels genuine, because it is. Heather Sellers – half of the husband and wife team at Horno – puts it simply, “fine food, not fine dining.” That’s a motto that she and Chef David Sellers live by.
Food for the People
Horno opened in 2021. The owners saw an opportunity for an upscale, moderately priced restaurant in downtown Santa Fe. A place that would welcome visitors and locals alike. Somewhere you could find, as Chef David Sellers sees it, “the best food for not a crazy expensive price” with a wine list that matches that value. “And I think there is,” Sellers says, “because it worked.”
Sellers hails from the Northeast but his family comes from North Carolina, and he recognizes the influence of Southern cooking and hospitality on what he does at Horno. “I learned a lot, you know, from the Southern ways.” Growing up, he had a job as a dishwasher while in high school and then worked as a baker to help pay for college in New Hampshire.
He moved to California to become a professional musician but instead fell in love with cooking. Alice Waters and the innovative farm-to-table approach at Chez Panisse changed the way he thought about food. “Her stuff just really grabbed me,” he says. Eventually he made his way to Santa Fe where he landed a job at SantaCafe and worked his way up the ranks. It’s also where he met his wife Heather, who worked front of house.
It’s not surprising that the food and hospitality at Horno are so generous. Both Heather and David spent years working in non-profits and their commitment to giving back to their community is clear and powerful. They bring an unfussiness to Horno and an intimacy to dining that feels familial, whether you’re eating solo at the bar or with friends at a table inside or out.
Equal Parts Experience and Hard Work
While those indoor tables are reserved for online bookings, outdoors are available for walk-ins. It means that during warm weather a petite restaurant can increase capacity by thirty percent. “It’s a complete game changer for this restaurant, it’s huge,” Sellers says. It’s a smart move but then everything at Horno feels well-considered. The kitchen is minute so every inch is maximized and the flow of cooking – what’s cooked and how – is paramount. “Just as much thought goes into how you’re going to execute the dish as actually creating the dish,” he says. Located just off the bar, there is a calmness to the kitchen which is reflected in a calmness in the dining room. It feels effortless but like everything at Horno it is the result of equal parts experience and hard work.
When I asked Sellers who influenced his cooking career, he cited Alice Waters and Jeremiah Tower, who got his start at Chez Panisse. But he lights up most when he mentions Marc Vetri, chef and founder of Philadelphia’s critically acclaimed Vetri Cucina. “He’s just constantly refining. He never stops,” Sellers says. He adds, “He’s still completely authentic. He’s never sold out in anyway whatsoever. You know, it’s just awesome. I just love people like that.”
Listening to Sellers talk about Vetri, it strikes me that the same thing could be said about him, his approach, and the mission of Horno. It’s the idea that exceptional dining shouldn’t be reserved for only the very wealthy. Food, not flash. It’s as Heather puts it, “Food for the people.” And Sellers delivers that. One dish, one plate, one memorable meal at a time.
Grilled Duroc Saltimbocca Pork Chop
A twist on the classic Italian saltimbocca but instead of the traditional pork scallopine, Sellers opts for a much juicer, bone-in heritage breed Duroc pork chop. A mix of farro, broccoli, and baby carrots adds crunch, while a perfectly balanced caper, sage, and preserved lemon sauce adds not only creaminess from the butter but also zing from the lemon, taking this saltimbocca to exalted heights.
Grilled Pork Belly Tostadas with Sriracha Aioli and Salsa Macha
This dish is a close relative to one that won Horno the taco wars in Santa Fe. Like all dishes at Horno, it’s perfectly balanced and features one of Sellers’ favorites – salsa macha that he makes with toasted Morita chiles. “It’s a very complex, delicious sauce,” he says. The pork is braised first, then grilled so it has a crispy exterior and melting interior. A pickled onion salad breaks through the fat and adds a welcome bite of acidity.
Roasted Beet with Pumpkin Seed-Piñon Granola and Tofu Feta
This vegan dish is a firm favorite of diners whether they’re vegan or not. Roasted yellow Chioggia beets are paired with hearty greens, cucumber, and then an addictive pumpkin seed and piñon granola that adds welcome crunch to the dish. Tofu ‘feta cheese’ (try it – you will be a convert) and a dill vinaigrette bring the whole dish together. It’s been on the menu since the day Horno opened and thankfully shows no sign of going anywhere soon.
Tuna Tartare on a Crispy Risotto Cake with Warm Anchovy Butter
Start with the finest, sushi grade tuna, dice it, and then introduce it to ingredients normally seen in beef tartare: Dijon mustard, lemon juice, fresh herbs and olive oil. Serve it on top of a warm, crispy risotto cake and then anoint it liberally with an anchovy butter sauce. The result is a delightful play between hot and cold, “And it always kind of takes people back – they’re shocked at first – and then love it.”
Chocolate Tahini Torte with Almond Caramel
It’s rich, it’s elegant, and it’s vegan. Sellers creates culinary magic with his take on a chocolate torte that he makes with coconut oil and tahini – a paste made from ground sesame seeds – and a lush almond caramel. A strawberry coulis adds drama and a light counterpoint to the depth of the chocolate. It’s finished with vegan meringues for a dessert that is a fitting end to a sublime meal.
Words by Julia Platt Leonard
Photography by Tira Howard
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