Albuquerque’s Mesa Provisions is cooking up a quiet revolution.
Central Avenue’s Culinary Canvas
One would be hard-pressed to find an area in New Mexico with more culinary diversity than Albuquerque’s Central Avenue. This collage of international and multicultural foods is a symbol of how we eat, gather, and say goodbye. Although we’ve lost a few spots over the years, the most resilient restaurants continue to greet each day with aplomb. Meanwhile, others have appeared to add their unique voices the area.
Mesa Provisions: A Subtle Discovery
If you drive the speed limit on Central, you will likely miss the sign for Mesa Provisions, which opened in August 2021. The subtle curb appeal of the exterior yields to a quiet, spare, and clean interior with a handful of tables, an ample bar, splashes of whimsy in the décor, and paintings by local artist Nikki Zabicki.
A Menu in the Details
The menu reflects the aesthetic, suggesting that your palate needs to pay attention to ensure nothing is missed. Consider the apricot ancho chile glaze on the smoked lamb ribs, red chile butter for the green chile biscuits, and chicken-skin “breadcrumbs” on the mac and cheese. The layers of ingredients, textures, and flavors seem endless.
Even more, the menu playfully shifts with the seasons, following the availability of ingredients sourced by local purveyors. Owner and Chef Steve Riley also brings his inspiration to the table.
Smoked Half Chicken
Red Chile, Cabbage Slaw, Pepita Crema served with Pinto Beans & Duck Fat Tortillas.
From Albuquerque to France and Back Again
Riley is a native of Albuquerque with a long kitchen pedigree that became fully realized, as many extraordinary things in food often do, in French cuisine. Under the tutelage of esteemed Chef Jennifer James at the now-closed Le Café Miche, Steve’s journey with food and cooking techniques began in earnest.
“I remember being amazed,” he says of many foods he tried for the first time. “I was learning ways of how things should and could be in French cooking.”
From there, Steve moved to California, where he spent a decade working with Chef Robert Bell at Chez Melange, followed by another seven years at Mama Terano, an Italian eatery he opened with Bell. After nearly 20 years, he decided to return home to Albuquerque with a vision of opening his restaurant.
Trout
Coconut Corn Curry Broth, Corn Chow Chow, Charred Tomato.
The Birth of Mesa Provisions
His re-entry into New Mexico included a stint as an executive chef at Farm to Table. Still, the ideas for what would become Mesa Provisions were never far from his mind. “I asked myself, what do I need out of a restaurant? What does Albuquerque need out of a restaurant? How can I make those things work together?”
Riley’s imagination exists in dimensions of both quality and quantity. Although some perennial dishes remain on the menu year-round, diners can always count on new creations that leave even the savviest eaters surprised—and satisfied.
“My goal is to make food that’s approachable and relatable. When people look at our menu and say, ‘I know what that is,’ it might not be how they remember it.”
Mole Sundae
Chocolate Chile Ice Cream, Duck Fat Caramel, Apricot, Nut & Seed Praline.
A New Chapter for New Mexico Foodways
We live in a part of the world where culinary excellence is often measured in green chile cheeseburgers and margaritas. To be clear, we’re huge fans of both. Still, neither alone captures the complexity and depth of New Mexico’s foodways.
Yet, with the same ingredients in play, a hometown chef manages to deliver well-orchestrated pandemonium. Chef Steve’s food points to something undiscovered, something new, something fresh—and always delicious.
Try Chef Steven’s recipe for Duck Fat Tortillas at home.
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Duck Fat Tortillas
Description
These duck fat tortillas are rich, tender, and flavorful, bringing a luxurious twist to a classic staple.
Ingredients
- 30 g vegetable oil
- 30 g duck fat
- 184 g + 122 g milk
- 390 g AP flour, nonbleached
- 10 g baking powder
- 10 g salt
Instructions
- In a small saucepan place oil, duck fat, and 184 g of milk on medium-low heat until warm, careful not to scorch milk.
- In a mixing bowl, combine flour, baking soda, and salt; mix combine. Add fat mixture and remaining milk to dry ingredients.
- Mix by hand until shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes.
- Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for one hour. Form into a disc and cut into 8-10 potions, rolling each portion into a ball and then flattening.
- Cook on a hot comal for 3 minutes per side or until lightly browned. Cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm and repeat.
Story by Gabe Gomez
Photography by Gabriella Marks
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