When we take the time to be tourists in our own hometown, we discover it with fresh eyes. Through the lens of the City Different’s four major summer festivals—International Folk Art, Santa Fe International Literary Festival, Traditional Spanish Market, and the Indian Market—Mara Harris points to ways of exploring the many centuries of history and culture that make Santa Fe, and the region around it, so unusually rich. With a focus on the folk lens, visitors can experience the music, art, and traditions that embody the spirit of community and creativity at the heart of Santa Fe.
“The art of the craftsman is a bond between the peoples of the world.”
Folk Art Santa Fe
Santa Fe is a nexus for the arts. In the early 20th century, Native American and traditional Hispanic Colonial arts experienced revivals. A burgeoning tourist market, the rise of artist and literary colonies, and illustrious visitors all came together in an artistic ferment. Alexander Girard, a prominent architect, designer, and collector, moved to Santa Fe with his wife, Susan, in 1953. The couple were ardent collectors of folk art. They traveled the world—sometimes accompanied by Georgia O’Keeffe—to expand Girard’s enormous collection. His passion for folk art heavily influenced his designs for textiles, interiors, and furniture.
International Folk Art Market
The world comes to Museum Hill every July for the International Folk Art Market, where artists from 60 different countries gather to display their artwork, and generate income to help sustain their communities. It’s a whirlwind of color and connection, and a celebration of the humanity of the handmade.
Museum of International Folk Art
The Museum of International Folk Art was founded by philanthropist Florence Dibell Bartlett, who saw folk arts as a way to bridge differences among people. She envisioned and funded the original building, designed by John Gaw Meem. Bartlett also donated the 2,500 objects that began the collection. The Alexander Girard Wing opened in 1983 with displays of more than 10,000 objects from around the world. This represented just 10% of Girard’s total donation.
The museum also houses the Hispanic Heritage Wing and the Contemporary Hispanic Gallery, the Neutrogena Wing, and the Gallery of Conscience, which examines issues that threaten the survival of traditional arts. Meanwhile, the Museum Shop is a favorite stop for books, clothing, décor, jewelry, and folk art.
The Inn of the Five Graces
Tucked into the middle of Santa Fe’s oldest neighborhood, the Barrio de Analco, The Inn of the Five Graces has gates that open onto lush courtyards, colorfully appointed rooms, and luxurious amenities. The boutique hotel is filled with furniture, textiles, and decorative elements from around the world.
The Compound Restaurant
In the heart of the Canyon Road Arts District, down an unassuming driveway, lies The Compound Restaurant. Part of an adobe compound dating from the 1850s, the restaurant was designed by Alexander Girard and opened in 1966. It still pays homage to the influential designer, with a sleek modern vibe, and walls adorned with Girard’s whimsical touches and distinctive typography. James Beard Award–winning chef and owner Mark Kiffin took over the restaurant in 2000, overseeing an evolving menu of Contemporary American cuisine.
La Reina Bar
The hippest spot in town is La Reina bar at El Rey Court, a re-envisioned 1930s motor court with a contemporary Southwestern vibe. Here you can experience mezcals and signature cocktails, live music on occasion, and even a pizza truck. All of it unfolds in a cool, Alexander Girard–inspired design. Queer Night every Monday night is a destination event!
Good Folk
Good Folk brings art from Oaxaca, Mexico, to downtown Santa Fe, along with the work of New Mexico folk artists.
Heritage by Hand
In a corner of the historic Sena Plaza, Heritage by Hand showcases textiles, ceramics, accessories, and clothing inspired by nature. All items are handmade using traditional techniques by artisans from Chile, Guatemala, Indonesia, Mexico, and beyond.
Road Trip
For a perfect day trip, drive the High Road to Taos and stop at Eight Million Gods, a folk-art emporium in Truchas. Owner and inveterate collector Hayward Simoneaux will delight you with his charmingly curated selection of folk art. This art comes from India, Mexico, Central and South America, and more, as well as Native American artists.
Reading List
Alexander Girard, Todd Oldham and Kiera Coffee
The Work of Art: Folk Artists in the 21st Century, Carmela Padilla
Story by Mara Harris
Photography courtesy of Gabriella Marks
Subscribe to TABLE Magazine‘s print edition.
