TABLE contributor Kelly Koepke stops in for a winter staycation at El Monte Sagrado in the beautiful city of Taos.
Taos is magical. That’s a refrain sung by more than a handful of the people we met in this town which prides itself on being a haven for spiritual seekers, ex-hippies, art appreciators, ski bums and those looking for a down-to-earth getaway.
The magic starts before we approach Taos. My favorite part of the drive north from Santa Fe on the low road to Taos is the final curve through the canyon when you catch a brief glimpse of the gorge. That fleeting moment signals that once you crest the hairpin turn ahead, you’ll arrive on the plain. There, laid out for miles ahead, is the steep rift valley caused by shifting tectonic plates. Far below at the bottom of the gorge is the Rio Grande making its way south.
Also in front of us are the brooding Sangre de Cristo Mountains, whose mood is always shifting, never the same, no matter how many times you see them. Magic.
A Winter Staycation at El Monte Sagrado
We’re headed to El Monte Sagrado, a Heritage Hotel resort and spa in the heart of Taos. This “Sacred Mountain” resort sits on four beautifully kept acres just blocks from the historic plaza. Two full-time groundskeepers maintain the mature cottonwoods, pines and other evergreens, several waterfalls and ponds, and the wandering paths through the property. Their work reminds guests that New Mexico’s high desert doesn’t mean barren, even in the wintertime.
Entering the resort’s hushed lobby, the scent of sage and piñon hits me, conveying a sense of calm and peace. A tall amethyst geode to the side of the crackling fireplace is an impressive anchor for the curving two-story space defined by stacked stone and plaster walls. The crystal in the center of the swirling ceiling is a 90-pound naturally occurring citrine, bouncing a warm glow around the space.
A Quiet Connection to the Earth
One door leads to a low-ceiling reception room set up like a quiet living room. The gracious staff offers water, coffee or tea then escorts us to our second-floor Taos Mountain room.
The room, as well as the entire resort, are decorated with natural materials linked to the history of this place. There’s cowhide-covered armoires and a stone fireplace whose pebbles also cover the sides of our two-person soaking tub and the floor of our shower. A rusty, aged patina covers the wrought-iron railings on our balcony, upon which we overlook a life-sized elk statue in our park-like view. The room’s painting of wild horses reflects a Southwestern aesthetic.
The resort does an exceptional job of setting the Taos scene. The public areas, bar, library, and dining room feature Southwestern art and sculpture from local artists. Some of the art is even for sale. If guests prefer, the resort offers several guided Taos excursions through its tour company, too.
Taking in the Amenities
We have enough time after dropping our overnight bags in the room before our dinner reservation at De La Tierra Restaurant to stroll the path through the resort’s global casitas area. These suites and stand-alone guesthouses take their names, design elements and décor from places miles away. You’ll spot elements from Morocco, China, Japan, and Argentina. We walk through the circular open space in the heart of the resort, mindful of the three monolithic rock sculptures guarding two waterfalls. We pass the full-service spa and the indoor saltwater pool and hot tub, themselves surrounded by trees, plants, and flowers.
Drinks in the lively Anaconda Bar––named for the gilded, snake-like sculpture that hugs the ceiling of the serpentine bar to coil down a column along one side––included the signature Jasmine Pearl. This elegant libation blended Fernet-Branca, gin, a jasmine tea infusion, and lemon juice. It’s a refreshing start to the evening’s main event: dinner from the menu of Chef Cristina Martinez.
Dinner with Chef Cristina Martine of El Monte Sagrado
James Beard Award-winner Mark Miller, of Santa Fe’s Coyote Café fame, mentored Chef Cristina when she took over the resort’s kitchen in 2016. She now creates a changing seasonal menu that features the best of what the area has with an international flair. The winter menu features hearty fare like elk, duck, and venison, and of course, Hatch green chile on the burgers.
We opted for Pan-Seared, Blue Corn-Crusted Ruby Trout with Tucumcari White Cheddar Grits. Plus, a starter of honey-chipotle grilled shrimp over a deconstructed salad of cucumbers, corn, and guacamole. An excellent steak frites was overshadowed by that evening’s appetizer special. Three jicama-shelled tacos overflowed with a combination of tender shredded duck, crunchy slaw, and a spicy sriracha aioli. We could have made a meal of those tacos alone.
Too full from our feast to think about dessert, we returned to our room and that deep-soaking tub. The aroma of sweet lemongrass and bamboo from the bubbles perfumed the room and relaxed us deeply. Inevitably, we slipped between deliciously smooth sheets and drifted off with one thought: magical.
Things to Discover at El Monte Sagrado
- The dining room chandelier was designed as a tribute to the Rose Window in the West Facade of the Cathedral at Reims in France, the traditional place where the kings of France were crowned.
- Go to the bathrooms near the pool, where the sink backsplashes are 50-million-year-old limestone fossil murals from Wyoming.
- Check out the antique pool table in the library, built in the early 1900s and once owned by pool hustler Rudolf Wanderone, who named himself after the fictional character Minnesota Fats embodied by Jackie Gleason in the 1961 film, The Hustler, with Paul Newman in the starring role.
Story by Kelly Koepke / Photography by Doug Merriam and El Monte Sagrado
Subscribe to TABLE Magazine‘s print edition.